GSXS 1000 Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Trying to locate the option feed on the loom to fit a couple of 5v USB bucks. Any idea where it is before I tear my bike GSXS1000F apart.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
There's a switched source behind the dash. Another good option is to use the line for the tail light, either splice into it as your hot, or use it as the switch for a relayed hot off the battery. That one runs along the right side under the seat, so pretty easy to get to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Trying to locate the option feed on the loom to fit a couple of 5v USB bucks. Any idea where it is before I tear my bike GSXS1000F apart.


Since I don't use heated grips I plugged into the heated grips location which is behind the headlight.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Is that on the F or S? The option port is frameside of the multiplug on the F where the S has its feed by the instrument cluster.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,269 Posts
Is that on the F or S? The option port is frameside of the multiplug on the F where the S has its feed by the instrument cluster.


I didn’t think there was one on the F?
I couldn’t find it when I fitted my usb socket so I went from the headlight supply. I plumbed into the rear of the big connector going to the front fairing. That way you can still remove any or all of your fairing without having to unplug/desolder if you are using a handle bar mount.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
437 Posts
The (best) naked version has a plug behind the headlight for charging, Im sure I seen somewhere on here that the F version has a plug by the tank somewhere?
Sell the faired and get the naked
 
  • Like
Reactions: dekker

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
on the naked the one for the heated grips is the one behind the headlight. Im not sure where its at exactly on the fared.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
985 Posts
on the naked the one for the heated grips is the one behind the headlight. Im not sure where its at exactly on the fared.
It's certainly an elusive critter on the F. I decided it was easier to install a switched power distribution block than to tear the bike apart and look for the connector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
437 Posts
What type of connector? It's on every naked? I'll have to look for this...
Yes on every naked, just unbolt headlight fold it forward and its a white 2 pin block connector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
For everyone looking for the connector, Fared or naked, try downloading the instructions for the heated grip installation. That is what I used when I installed my USB since I never planned on heated grips. The instructions for install gives the plug location on both bikes....never had the ugly step sister bike so did not really pay attention where it was on there. (I am just teasing the more aesthetically challenged of you)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
For everyone looking for the connector, Fared or naked, try downloading the instructions for the heated grip installation. That is what I used when I installed my USB since I never planned on heated grips. The instructions for install gives the plug location on both bikes....never had the ugly step sister bike so did not really pay attention where it was on there. (I am just teasing the more aesthetically challenged of you)
dont suppose you have a link do you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
985 Posts
I had the same thought about the Suzuki instructions a while back, but never had any luck with online searches. Maybe just wasn't using the right terminology.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
229 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Okay then, seems no-one has the answer. I will strip my fairings tank and nose cone down to search for the little blighter.

Will post a response with pictures if or when I find it.

May just add a fused plug direct from the battery to the handlebars at the same time for any future mods.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
162 Posts
On the naked, there are two screws to remove the plastic cover on top of the headlight cowl. Pop off the cover and there are two more screws to remove under the cover. From there, the whole assembly just flips forward. Sure enough, there is an unused plug under there! I'm not sure where to find a USB adapter with this type of connector on the other end, but I'm sure someone makes it.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
on the F there is switched supply plug under the front of the air box, you need to remove the air box to get at it.
i tested mine 2015 f ignition off 0v ignition on 12v.

hope it helps

neil
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Absolute pain to get at.
Fairing off was just the start, then remove seat, side panels from fuel tank and lift tank.Remove ignition switch cover and you can see the little devil. But not reach it. I ran out of time so abandoned the job at that point.

Watch out for the small rubber grommets used to locate the fairing to frame on assembly as they will disappear into the frame.

I do not know if a little long reach grab will pull ithe connector out from between the frame / air box or if it is cabled tied in place requiring removal of the air box.


So 3 wires run ready for the wife to go out for the day and I can complete the job without having to explain why I am dismantling the brand new bike. 3 = 1 to the auxilary power connector to switch a relay, 2 from fused relay/distribution block back to feed usb and potentially heated grips. But space under seat for the distribution block is tight.

Major tip. Invest in a set of JIS screwdrivers first. Obviously follow the advise to insert a cloth to stop the "Meter" panels from scratching the tank protector.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,208 Posts
<<snipped >>

Major tip. Invest in a set of JIS screwdrivers first. Obviously follow the advise to insert a cloth to stop the "Meter" panels from scratching the tank protector.
If your like me wondering what the heck a JIS screwdriver is :
" JIS screws are used by most manufacturers of motorcycles, snowmobiles, ATV, UTV, 3-Wheelers, PWC'S and a ton of other products made in Japan.
Phillips screws by design were created to cam-out.

JIS drivers are re-engineered standards that aim to reduce or eliminate cam-out.
Even though the JIS & Phillips looks very similar, they are two different designs and the drivers are not meant to be interchangeable. Using one in the other will lead to frustration and stripped out screws. "


Rob.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
OK, the wife has disappeared for the day. time to crack on. Use the manual for details of how to remove panels etc.

First make your pride and joy safe!

44034



Remove the "Meter" panel, inserting a cloth between the panel and tank front is highly recommended to avoid any scratching.
44035


So for messing with painted panels etc. I use plastic trim tools to avoid nasty scratches.

44036


Talking of tools JIS screwdrivers to avoid screw head damage.
44037


When removing the RH fairing, undo the cable tie (it has a clip so you don't need to cut it)
44038


You will need to remove tank sides, push it out from where the side rear plugs into seat fairing, there are two clips so pull clear of velcro and slid backwards.
44039

Lift the tank, I use the prop that came with my GSX-R
44040


Now look between the airbox and frame to the right and you will see the little devil hiding in the depths. Tugging on it with a grab gave me the bad news, the cable it only an inch or two so airbox disconnected.

Remove the ecu from airbox top, all the screws, including the one hidden beneath a rubber bung and remove the top. undo the bolt that connects airbox to the frame and slacken the 4 clips about the throttle bodies and pull the airbox sufficiently away to expose the front air intakes and there she is.

44041



All you need to do is make up your own cable to connect to it.
44042



And finally re-assemble.




Now the above cable is used to switch a relay. Imagine my frustration after assembling everything to now discover a flashing FI, dealer mode shows C42 which is ignition switch resistance. The bike runs, unplugging the relay removes the fault. All that effort appears wasted!

Edit, in frustration I went back, with meter and something is now making a liar of me. Relay switches, no fault code.

So what to do with a working auxiliary with 3 fused outputs.

Well the first is to return the auxiliary to a more useful position should I want to fit heated grips etc. Independently fused with appropriate sizing. The second is for a usb connector to power camera and the third for an underseat power for whatever I may want in the future (Bearing in mind the lack of space so perhaps a second usb to recharge my phone whilst on the move..
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top