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Discussion Starter #1
Well, not sure how I did it (I really thought I was paying attention) but while changing the oil and filter today I overfilled the oil a bit, now I'm wondering if I need to drain some.

With the bike on level ground, the oil level is roughly halfway between the Full mark and the top of the sight glass.

Without knowing the level was that high, I took the bike out for a 12-15 mile ride after changing the oil, seldom reaching much over 50 mph except for one very short run up to maybe 7,000 rpm in 2nd gear. When I got back home I looked under the bike for any leaks, found none. So far so good. Then I pulled the bike up to a level stance as best as I could manage by myself while also trying to look at the oil level in the sight glass, and saw that the level was over the Full mark. There were no bubbles or froth in the oil (fresh Motul 5100 if that matters).

Should I drain some, or not worry about it?
 

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Mine is like that now, don't care. I've gone easy on her though, only frequently reving to 10k and 130mph. Easy to crack the plug and drain it a bit though. Maybe I'll get motivated tomorrow, it's raining...
 

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I'd like to imagine that the oil pressure light would pop on if there was too much, the same way it would if there was no pressure... I think with the amount you have at worst, the crank might have a little extra splash with it.

But I'm really not sure. So I'm commenting here too, to make it to find in the future if someone more knowledgeable chimes in with a proper answer for you, since I can see myself doing the same thing.
 

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If you still have an air bubble at the top of the sight glass, you are fine. Ride and forget about it. But if the sight glass is totally full, you need to let some out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Frog, I was hoping someone would make some kind of comment along the lines of "as long as you haven't completely filled up the sight window then you're good to go".

And with that said, I'm prolly leaning toward just loosening the drain plug and letting a few ounces out, if only because I'm feeling my OCD starting to flare up a little..
 

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Not that I have any technical insight, but I would imagine Suzuki allows for some error and I don't know anyone that actually checks their bike with a level when observing the oil fill window. ;)
 

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takes tiny amount of oil to go from full iine to top of glass....dont believe a danger zone would happen or be designed in that small amount of space.....your fine......but all that matters is what puts you at ease......should be able to losen nut till it starts dripping ...it will be better then watching paint dry
 

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Just get an industrial syringe with a plastic tube, dip it down the the oil dipstick hole and siphon 50ml at a time until the level is between max and min when running temp. Too much oil cant be that good for your engine
 

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<<snipped>>

With the bike on level ground, the oil level is roughly halfway between the Full mark and the top of the sight glass.
<<snipped>>
Should I drain some, or not worry about it?
Hey Young Fella OJB,
Was that on the side stand? The oil is correctly seen when the bike is dead vertical.

Your experience is less severe than my car oil change some 25 years ago.
Changed the oil and filter, with the car on the road, one wheel on the kerb, other on the road.
I had 4 litres of Castrol GTX2 oil and it needed close to that amount.

Filled it and checked frequently, and it need a little bit more. So it got another 4 litre bottle and repeated the little dose.
Nothing happened. Perhaps it's the angle, but the road side was up about 100 mm on blocks under the front wheel, so tip some in some.
Pull out the dip strick again, still no change.
Start the car for a few minutes, and check, still no change. WTF ???
Tip a lot more in, no rise on the dipstick.

7 litres in by now, and then the penny dropped. Why was the on the stick oil reddish.brown ?
You Dickhead Rob, had all the time been pulling out and checking the auto transmission dipstick !!!!
The ran fine with 7 litres of oil in a 4 litre sump for several minutes with me revving it on and off, and suffered no ill's then or after.draining it again.

You'll be fine as the others said.

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I checked the oil level again while the bike was held straight up (but not lifted) by a paddock stand on the swingarm bobbins, and the oil level is actually just at the very top of the full mark. So I'm gonna leave it be.

And now that I have a clear picture of where the level currently is, I think I'm gonna check it again monthly for any evidence of oil consumption.

Not sure why it was reading higher when I checked it earlier, except that possibly I wasn't really holding the bike straight-up vertical.

Thanks to all who offered their input.
 

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Why not start over?Drain the oil in a clean bucket and put the correct amount in , it might take a few minutes but you will have peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Why not start over?Drain the oil in a clean bucket and put the correct amount in , it might take a few minutes but you will have peace of mind.
Thanks for the idea, but..

1) After much gnashing of teeth and rending of sack cloth I've decided my current oil level isn't over-full enough for me to worry about it.

2) If I did what you're suggesting it'd be opening up the possibility of introducing more dirt into the oil by draining it into an open container and then pouring that back into the engine.

3) I'm really trying to get a working handle on my OCD, and the procedure you describe would likely only aggravate it.

But thanks again for the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I figured out what I did wrong..

When I first checked the oil level after changing it, the rear of the bike was up on a paddock stand in the driveway, which is slightly inclined (knowing that I should check the oil with the bike level, I tried to approximate a level condition by having the bike in the driveway). But apparently the incline of the driveway wasn't enough to offset the jacked-up condition of the rear of the bike (even though it appeared to be close), so the bike was still a little rear-high, which would make the oil level appear a little lower in the sight window, because the window is at the rear of the crankcase. Anyway, I added oil until the level reached the Full mark, fired it up for a couple of minutes, turned it off and let it sit for a couple of minutes and re-topped the level to the Full mark again, then took it out for a ride. When I got home I pulled into the garage (level floor) and parked the bike with the handlebar locked in the full-left position. After dinner I went back out to the garage to re-check the oil level and and just tilted the bike back to an upright balanced position with the handlebar still locked full left and looked at the sight glass. And there's the rub - when the front wheel is turned either direction, the contact patch of the front tire isn't centered directly under the bike anymore, but is off to one side, such that to balance the weight of the bike left-to-right actually requires that the bike be leaned slightly in the opposite direction that the handlebars are turned. So when I had the bike balanced in what I thought was an upright position I actually had it leaning toward the right, which would make the oil level appear higher in the sight window.

When I realized what was going on, I unlocked and straightened the bars and re-checked the sight window and the level was down to the upper edge of the Full mark. I can live with that just fine.

Sorry for the long-winded diatribe, just wanted to explain what I had learned.
 

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It also seems to take more than 3 or 4 minutes to fully drain back into the pan. I've cycled the oil after a change, clean up and then check only to need a top off. Next day I'm a bit high.
 

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Well, I figured out what I did wrong..

When I first checked the oil level after changing it, the rear of the bike was up on a paddock stand in the driveway, which is slightly inclined (knowing that I should check the oil with the bike level, I tried to approximate a level condition by having the bike in the driveway). But apparently the incline of the driveway wasn't enough to offset the jacked-up condition of the rear of the bike (even though it appeared to be close), so the bike was still a little rear-high, which would make the oil level appear a little lower in the sight window, because the window is at the rear of the crankcase. Anyway, I added oil until the level reached the Full mark, fired it up for a couple of minutes, turned it off and let it sit for a couple of minutes and re-topped the level to the Full mark again, then took it out for a ride. When I got home I pulled into the garage (level floor) and parked the bike with the handlebar locked in the full-left position. After dinner I went back out to the garage to re-check the oil level and and just tilted the bike back to an upright balanced position with the handlebar still locked full left and looked at the sight glass. And there's the rub - when the front wheel is turned either direction, the contact patch of the front tire isn't centered directly under the bike anymore, but is off to one side, such that to balance the weight of the bike left-to-right actually requires that the bike be leaned slightly in the opposite direction that the handlebars are turned. So when I had the bike balanced in what I thought was an upright position I actually had it leaning toward the right, which would make the oil level appear higher in the sight window.

When I realized what was going on, I unlocked and straightened the bars and re-checked the sight window and the level was down to the upper edge of the Full mark. I can live with that just fine.

Sorry for the long-winded diatribe, just wanted to explain what I had learned.
well what i learned is,most of us are the same...so grab your morning coffee,sit back and look at that oil level every morning....dont get any better then that
 
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