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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
.........finally got here! Did some reading and watching vids to get an overview of the install and configs.
Removing the fairings will be the hardest part.
PCV came with the only map out there presently - the one on the Power Commander site for stock exhaust and stock air filter. I'll start with that and see what the Autotune does, since I have the M4 full exhaust. It will probably be the weekend before I have time to work on this.
I've had a PCV before so I knew what to expect. I did not expect the Autotune to be even smaller.
 

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I'll be interested in hearing how the PCV Autotune works out. I used a Dynojet Power Vision with autotune function (closed loop) on a H-D back in 2011 and it worked quite well. I traded the bike in later and the dealer put it on a dyno and said the map that the Power Vision created was "spot on".

Autotune is a great thing when you have changed the induction and/or exhaust on your bike and don't have access to a "competent" dyno shop. IMHO good dyno techs are few and far between (at least in my neck of the woods).

I'll be watching for an update from you after you get the autotune working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll be interested in hearing how the PCV Autotune works out. I used a Dynojet Power Vision with autotune function (closed loop) on a H-D back in 2011 and it worked quite well. I traded the bike in later and the dealer put it on a dyno and said the map that the Power Vision created was "spot on".

Autotune is a great thing when you have changed the induction and/or exhaust on your bike and don't have access to a "competent" dyno shop. IMHO good dyno techs are few and far between (at least in my neck of the woods).

I'll be watching for an update from you after you get the autotune working.

Well, that's good news! I didn't know if the Autotune would be "better than nothing" or dead on. Hearing you say that it was "spot on" gives me hope. :nerd:


Still want to do the QS after seeing your write-up, once I get this phase done.
 

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Well, that's good news! I didn't know if the Autotune would be "better than nothing" or dead on. Hearing you say that it was "spot on" gives me hope. :nerd:


Still want to do the QS after seeing your write-up, once I get this phase done.

I'm not sure how the autotune works with a PCV but with the PV (Power Vision) you put it in a "learn" mode and the go ride for about 30 minutes. When the ride is over, you download the data that the PV just recorded into a computer that is running the PV program. Tell it to crunch the numbers and the program then creates a new map. Then tell the PV to reflash the ECU with the new map. As I recall, I made 10 to 15 "learning runs" before the map reached a point that there was no longer any improvement in engine performance.


I guess I'm wondering if the process is similar with a PCV and Autotune. Of course, I know that the PCV doesn't reflash the ECU like a PV does on a Harley, but do you still need to download data from the autotune module to a special PCV program so that it can create a new map for the PCV?


I guess I could find the answer on the Dynojet website.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I guess I'm wondering if the process is similar with a PCV and Autotune. Of course, I know that the PCV doesn't reflash the ECU like a PV does on a Harley, but do you still need to download data from the autotune module to a special PCV program so that it can create a new map for the PCV?

I guess I could find the answer on the Dynojet website.
Yes, bottom line, they have short videos on all the products, so that's your best source.
As I understand it, you set the target A/F in all the cells (eg. 13.2) and the Autotune will try to bring the actual A/F to that value as the engine is running. You don't have to take any action for the better tune to take place.
However, you can connect the laptop and look at the suggested Trims and decide whether to accept them. If you do, it then gets written to the map in the PCV. If not, the original map remains and you start all over.
Since I have not installed it yet, I won't know for sure until I play with it.
 

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just wondering does the GSX-S 1000 require a new bung being welded in or is the existing O2 sensor bung fit the wideband O2 provided by the autotune kit ?
 

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Yes, bottom line, they have short videos on all the products, so that's your best source.
As I understand it, you set the target A/F in all the cells (eg. 13.2) and the Autotune will try to bring the actual A/F to that value as the engine is running. You don't have to take any action for the better tune to take place.
However, you can connect the laptop and look at the suggested Trims and decide whether to accept them. If you do, it then gets written to the map in the PCV. If not, the original map remains and you start all over.
Since I have not installed it yet, I won't know for sure until I play with it.
Great description. Thats just how it works.

I found it drove me nuts from that point once I really thought about it. Keep in mind, I'm probably 75% nuts, but thoughts like...

Is 13.2 REALLY appropriate for my bike, or might 13.4 be better?

Then more thoguhts like, "That last section was 20 miles climbing a hill. Should it really count?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
just wondering does the GSX-S 1000 require a new bung being welded in or is the existing O2 sensor bung fit the wideband O2 provided by the autotune kit ?

The O2 sensor that comes with the Autotune kit requires an 18 mm bung. The Autotune kit comes with a weld-on bung.


I *think* that the stock bung is 12 mm. I can verify that when I get home tonight. I knew that I kept the stock exhaust for a reason! :eek:


It's not an issue for me as the M4 exhaust comes with the stock bung as well as the 18 mm bung. That in itself says they are probably different sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Removing the fairings will be the hardest part.

I was wrong!

Removing the headlight harness connector was the hardest part. I ran out of time last night (bed time) and only got a quick try at it. I am at work now so I can't do anything. I'm frustrated that it wasn't a 60 second deal and that I can't look at it now.


What am I missing?

It appears to have a tab inside the connector (the side pointed toward the headlight). You can push it either toward the center of the connector or to the outside. I tried both, but did not try to force anything.


Can anyone tell me how this connector comes apart?
 

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The O2 sensor that comes with the Autotune kit requires an 18 mm bung. The Autotune kit comes with a weld-on bung.


I *think* that the stock bung is 12 mm. I can verify that when I get home tonight. I knew that I kept the stock exhaust for a reason! :eek:


It's not an issue for me as the M4 exhaust comes with the stock bung as well as the 18 mm bung. That in itself says they are probably different sizes.
surely the autotune sensor is just going to replace the stock o2 sensor in the exhaust so hopefully it will be supplied the correct size from dynojet
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I was wrong!

Removing the headlight harness connector was the hardest part. I ran out of time last night (bed time) and only got a quick try at it. I am at work now so I can't do anything. I'm frustrated that it wasn't a 60 second deal and that I can't look at it now.


What am I missing?

It appears to have a tab inside the connector (the side pointed toward the headlight). You can push it either toward the center of the connector or to the outside. I tried both, but did not try to force anything.


Can anyone tell me how this connector comes apart?

Nevermind.


It was a 30 second deal, like I expected.
It was late last night and I was ready for bed.
I got a light on it today and got a better look.
Tab is on the side going to the frame. Just push up and pull apart.
 

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surely the autotune sensor is just going to replace the stock o2 sensor in the exhaust so hopefully it will be supplied the correct size from dynojet
I remember I had to get a welder to fix this.
But this was on an GSF1250.
The first welder was incompetent and destroyed my Akrapovic (titan) can.
Got another welder to weld the *18mm* bung to a Yoshi RS77 can that replaced the Akra.
BKing also had 12mm OEM sensor, but for this bike I used aftermarket headers of course. :)

This is very easy to find out on the Dynojet(Powercommander) website.
Instructions can be downloaded from their site.

There are adaptors (12->18) from Innovate.
 

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The PCV with Autotune will get you pretty close to where you set it. I'm not sure what it will do around 7,000 rpm when something upsets the air/fuel ratio though. It will be interesting to see if Autotune gets upset there.

The PCV has the facility to run two maps so if it were mine and I should have done this, I would start by setting the autotune to 13.2. That's where I aimed for when I did my PCV map manually. You can then save this map made by autotune into the map 1 facility of the PCV and then change the Autotune to another map in the map 2 position of the PCV. Then simply switch between the two when you are riding to see which is better. At this stage of finessing the tune I reckon you are better doing it by the seat of your pants. Just work out where you have an issue and start mucking around with it a little at a time. It takes time but once you've done it a few times you will get the hang of it. Just have a go, you can't mess up the original map as the PCV doesn't change the ECU it just acts as an interface.

Remember every bike is and individual and my 13.2 might not suit yours or our fuels may be different. As a rule, every classic bike we import from the USA needs a leaner mixture here in Aus. We're not allowed to import late models so I cannot really advise accurately for our gsxs1000s.

Look at the Dynojet website or YouTube, all of this is explained much better than I can do here, pics and videos to help as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As for as the bung size needed for the Autotune sensor, well a picture is worth - well, you know .............


The bung that comes with the Autotune kit is sitting on the pipe next to the stock one.
 

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As for as the bung size needed for the Autotune sensor, well a picture is worth - well, you know .............


The bung that comes with the Autotune kit is sitting on the pipe next to the stock one.
Yikes! I won't be auto tuning it any time soon then.
 

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The PCV with Autotune will get you pretty close to where you set it. I'm not sure what it will do around 7,000 rpm when something upsets the air/fuel ratio though. It will be interesting to see if Autotune gets upset there.

The PCV has the facility to run two maps so if it were mine and I should have done this, I would start by setting the autotune to 13.2. That's where I aimed for when I did my PCV map manually. You can then save this map made by autotune into the map 1 facility of the PCV and then change the Autotune to another map in the map 2 position of the PCV. Then simply switch between the two when you are riding to see which is better. At this stage of finessing the tune I reckon you are better doing it by the seat of your pants. Just work out where you have an issue and start mucking around with it a little at a time. It takes time but once you've done it a few times you will get the hang of it. Just have a go, you can't mess up the original map as the PCV doesn't change the ECU it just acts as an interface.

Remember every bike is and individual and my 13.2 might not suit yours or our fuels may be different. As a rule, every classic bike we import from the USA needs a leaner mixture here in Aus. We're not allowed to import late models so I cannot really advise accurately for our gsxs1000s.

Look at the Dynojet website or YouTube, all of this is explained much better than I can do here, pics and videos to help as well.
I'm not so sure about dynojet doing a better job of explaining.. Your description is great.

When you said, "Remember every bike is and individual and my 13.2 might not suit yours or our fuels may be different."

How, where and when did you decide to try something different than 13.2?
 

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As for as the bung size needed for the Autotune sensor, well a picture is worth - well, you know .............


The bung that comes with the Autotune kit is sitting on the pipe next to the stock one.
Hey Lucky, I haven't seen any post from you in a while regarding the DynoJet Autotune. Did you get it installed yet and if so how is it doing? Also, I'm confused about the bung size issue as it relates to the M4 full exhaust. I understand that Autotune comes with a 18 mm bung and the stock bung is 12 mm. Did the M4 come with a bung welded in place? If so, what size is it? I saw your pictures but I wasn't sure if that was the stock exhaust or the M4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey Lucky, I haven't seen any post from you in a while regarding the DynoJet Autotune. Did you get it installed yet and if so how is it doing? Also, I'm confused about the bung size issue as it relates to the M4 full exhaust. I understand that Autotune comes with a 18 mm bung and the stock bung is 12 mm. Did the M4 come with a bung welded in place? If so, what size is it? I saw your pictures but I wasn't sure if that was the stock exhaust or the M4.


The M4 comes with both bungs so it is good to go for the Autotune. The picture above is the stock exhaust.


I am bummed that I haven’t been able to get it installed and play with it. Life issues and work have been getting in the way. 2016 has not been off to a good start for me.


Once the Autotune has done its thing, I plan to put the bike on a dyno with a zero map and get it tuned. That will tell us what AFR is really needed and how good the Autotune is after comparing the 2 maps.
 
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