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Sorry removed post , found it mentioned by another.....

Cheers
That does not matter, it was way down the list and i was interested what others had to say, do not forget newbies are coming all the time with new knowledge, or at least bump the other thread with your thoughts.;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
O.K., it was regarding adjusting the Primary TPS to achieve a much better on/off throttle as the fuel shot off would be stopped from happening by telling the ECU that the primary throttle is still open. Found it on the GSR forum. Do a web search on "Tamed The Beast". also just noticed that a service bulletin has been released regarding replacement ECU by suzuki so check with your dealers for affected models, it is on this site under "Suzuki Is Listening" on page 15......Service Bulletin Issue No. M-T-0012.........I'm going to check with my dealer on Monday!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Think this makes a lot of sense when you start to think how it all works, going to do a lot more investigating on this as well as check up about the ECU replacement.
 

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I actually adjusted the primary TPS on my gsx-F model. The snatchy effect has been eliminated. The other effect is that the idle has increased about 200 rpm, the TC options will only adjust with power on and engine not running. This really doesn't bother me as the bike has run so much smoother without the snatch. My reasons for going the smooth route is because the transmission seems to be taking all the grunt. I was afraid the gear dogs gets worn out even before my warranty period. It also bothers the heck out of me that jerky slop feeling. It worked for me.
 

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O.K. So here are my findings today............and I don't take credit for anything as it has been documented by others obviously.

Checked my ECU part no and I have the latest part no according to the Suzuki Bulletin, all good there, so I thought well I'm thirds there I will check the position of my Primary TPS. Well low and behold before I even put it into service mode I could see there was an issue. As you can see in the picture the TPS has the factory white mark on it.........doe everyone see what's wrong here!!!!!

So I popped the cap off the service mode connector, did the short of the 2 pins and fired her up.........mind you this was after warming the bike up properly beforehand. Picture 2 of dash confirmed "_C00" caused by picture 1 showing the lower position of the TPS. Now for those that haven't done this procedure it is extremely easy to do and took just 5 minutes once you have it stripped ready to go.

With ignition off I disconnected the Secondary TPS to allow access to the Torx Screw of the Primary TPS which I loosened enough to be able to slightly move its position when required. Reconnect Secondary TPS and start bike. Then ever so slightly I moved the TPS back towards its original white mark position from factory.........waited about 5 seconds and the display changed to -C00........a slight tweek more and I had it sitting at the high level. I tried the throttle a few times to let it settle and then rechecked it was just hitting the upper position on the dash. Turned off ignition.......removed Secondary TPS connector, tightened TPS Torx Screw and refitted S/TPS connector. Turned on ignition, started bike and rechecked dash again ......all good and now white factory line was almost perfect. Strange that this was changed by the factory or someone else to possibly get through emissions testing. Anyway time for a quick test ride.

Just a 10 minute blast up a local back road but what a difference............Smooth as transition from On/Off throttle in rev range of 5K - upwards regardless of gear selected. No hunting and surging when trying to hold a constant speed from 50kms up to well over 100km and tested in rev range 2.5K and up. Able to hold corner lines now with roll ons through bends giving smooth drive rather than a huge jump off line. I now have the bike I was hoping for. Even though it was just a short test the difference is night and day. Time will be the telling factor and I'm sure a proper remap of the ECU will lead to even better results but for a total of about an hour of my time and no money outlaid ..........SUPER HAPPY!!!!
 

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<snip-detailed-stuff-for-fixing>
Just a 10 minute blast up a local back road but what a difference............Smooth as transition from On/Off throttle in rev range of 5K - upwards regardless of gear selected. No hunting and surging when trying to hold a constant speed from 50kms up to well over 100km and tested in rev range 2.5K and up. Able to hold corner lines now with roll ons through bends giving smooth drive rather than a huge jump off line. I now have the bike I was hoping for. Even though it was just a short test the difference is night and day. Time will be the telling factor and I'm sure a proper remap of the ECU will lead to even better results but for a total of about an hour of my time and no money outlaid ..........SUPER HAPPY!!!!
This is a great find! :)
 

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Checked my ECU part no and I have the latest part no according to the Suzuki Bulletin
May I please ask what part number is it? I have been riding my GSXS for a few days now (will do a short review) and it is pretty smooth. Just curious if my bike has a latest ECU part.
 

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O.K. So here are my findings today............and I don't take credit for anything as it has been documented by others obviously.

Checked my ECU part no and I have the latest part no according to the Suzuki Bulletin, all good there, so I thought well I'm thirds there I will check the position of my Primary TPS. Well low and behold before I even put it into service mode I could see there was an issue. As you can see in the picture the TPS has the factory white mark on it.........doe everyone see what's wrong here!!!!!

So I popped the cap off the service mode connector, did the short of the 2 pins and fired her up.........mind you this was after warming the bike up properly beforehand. Picture 2 of dash confirmed "_C00" caused by picture 1 showing the lower position of the TPS. Now for those that haven't done this procedure it is extremely easy to do and took just 5 minutes once you have it stripped ready to go.

With ignition off I disconnected the Secondary TPS to allow access to the Torx Screw of the Primary TPS which I loosened enough to be able to slightly move its position when required. Reconnect Secondary TPS and start bike. Then ever so slightly I moved the TPS back towards its original white mark position from factory.........waited about 5 seconds and the display changed to -C00........a slight tweek more and I had it sitting at the high level. I tried the throttle a few times to let it settle and then rechecked it was just hitting the upper position on the dash. Turned off ignition.......removed Secondary TPS connector, tightened TPS Torx Screw and refitted S/TPS connector. Turned on ignition, started bike and rechecked dash again ......all good and now white factory line was almost perfect. Strange that this was changed by the factory or someone else to possibly get through emissions testing. Anyway time for a quick test ride.

Just a 10 minute blast up a local back road but what a difference............Smooth as transition from On/Off throttle in rev range of 5K - upwards regardless of gear selected. No hunting and surging when trying to hold a constant speed from 50kms up to well over 100km and tested in rev range 2.5K and up. Able to hold corner lines now with roll ons through bends giving smooth drive rather than a huge jump off line. I now have the bike I was hoping for. Even though it was just a short test the difference is night and day. Time will be the telling factor and I'm sure a proper remap of the ECU will lead to even better results but for a total of about an hour of my time and no money outlaid ..........SUPER HAPPY!!!!

Good Post ggas250, I got my bike in pieces now and the position of my TPS closest to the engine is in the same position as you pictured it, with the TPS about 1 mm further clockwise than the Suzuki mark on the throttle body itself.
I made the mistake of adjusting the top sensor as I did not see the second one below it. Made the same mistake on a Bandit 20 years ago, so be careful. Too bad it does not change the -COO either, I found.

I was stumped on how to proceed, and I am glad you said to move the top sensor as I didn't want to just pull it off the shaft altogether.
The top sensor's wiring connector covers the needed TPS adjustment screw. I assume that there is enough slot length to swing it away? Great design that.
A tip for others: the white connector with the grey foam that the 2 wires needed to be shorted (between the White/ Red and the Black/White wires) in under the pillion set on the far right hand side and has very little spare wire coming out from the loom. The release mechanism for the plug cover needs to be pushed in real hard to release the holding barb. The COO reading place is the clock.

Before I touched the wrong sensor, the _COO with a warmed up idle of 1200 RPM (the Owners book doesn't say) and went to -COO at 2250 RPM dropping back to _COO around the same rev's.

Taking those panels off took a while too, and the Suzi Owners manual doesn't really point out in the text that there is a plug in the cover above the S Suzuki emblem and you have to squeeze and pull to get that section to release. Also,they refer to a plug as a hook.
TO BE CONTINUED TOMORROW.
Rob.
 

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Holy crap. I just did this.
I also did a base line test on the Booster Plug.
Btw I have no other mods except for the throttle tamer.
So its not a real base line test but I remember how the bike used to feel like a thousand km ago before the throttle tamer.

I did a few base line runs first
1. Disconnected booster plug - Snatchy but somwhat smoothed out from whe
2. Connected booster plug - smooth not so jerkey but has a hunting fueling sound below 50000 rpm

Now set the TPS using the above methods to -C00
1. Disconnected booster plug - Feels like how it should have been from the factory like all my other suzukis in the past. That classic stock feel
2. Connected booster plug - As number 1 but with a lot more bottom end.

I never suspected this since i thought these would be correct from factory. Thanks guys
 

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Kawasaki sells a plug that goes between the actual tps and the bike itself. I'm sure Suzuki has one, too.

It makes it so its very easy to get a connection point for a multimeter. That tps is so sensitive to movement, having a meter hooked up makes precision adjustments possible and you'll also have a specific number to tell others to try.

What made the adapter plug nice is the meter could be in while the bike was running, so it was easy to try different settings and be able to tell the next guy, "Hey, 1.067 worked really well..." or whatever the number was.

I found it in the the bikes service manual. Way overpriced at 35.00, but it was easy to work with.
 
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