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Discussion Starter #1
I was looking to fit one of these to the bike, any tips on accessing the plugs?
Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that, I'll make a start next week. Whats the change like from first to second?
 

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I generally make a short quick clutched shift from 1st to 2nd and then use the shifter, but i have occasionally used it from 1st and its been smooth. Always above 8k.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for that, I've fitted mine now, the earth wire needed extending but otherwise my sense of humour is intact. Now I need to reassemble every thing,so lets hope I remember where it all fits. Next is an ECU flash & or a PC.
All the best.
 

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@Mdala
Which one did you get? I was thinking of the superlite.

The only experience of a QS I've had is when I test rode the S1000R. It had the basic 'up only' version which I fell in love with. That would seamlessly shift up from any gear (1st included) at any revs. I was hoping to achieve the same on the GSX-S, but I'm wondering if that's going to be possible with anything but the top spec HM?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I fitted the HM plus which allows you to adjust the kill time but not different times between each gear. To do that you need the top of the range HM, but I think Power commander do a stand alone version which gives you an option to adjust the kill time differently between each gear.
I fitted mine an hour at a time after work last week, so I finally lowered the tank this morning & turned the key. The FI light came up, but I could hear the pump cut in, so I raised the tank checked all the multi pin plugs & they were all connected, checked the fuses, disconnected the QS, checked the connection & plug to the fuel pump, all to no avail. I don't know if having the tank raised for a week would cause this problem.
I am looking for some help from you fellahs as this is my first Suzuki & I'm a long way from the shop. Thanks in advance.
 

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Double check that you have re connected the sensor plugs on the Air Box, easy to forget.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for that, I gave it a good coat of looking at & I couldn't find any thing un connected, as you say it usually something simple.
 

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I fitted the HM plus which allows you to adjust the kill time but not different times between each gear. To do that you need the top of the range HM, but I think Power commander do a stand alone version which gives you an option to adjust the kill time differently between each gear.
I fitted mine an hour at a time after work last week, so I finally lowered the tank this morning & turned the key. The FI light came up, but I could hear the pump cut in, so I raised the tank checked all the multi pin plugs & they were all connected, checked the fuses, disconnected the QS, checked the connection & plug to the fuel pump, all to no avail. I don't know if having the tank raised for a week would cause this problem.
I am looking for some help from you fellahs as this is my first Suzuki & I'm a long way from the shop. Thanks in advance.
Hey Mdala,
I've just 'installed' a hm superlite and am having the same problem with the engine light and fi on the dash.
I have checked all the connections and everything looks good, i dont think i've missed anything.
Did you get yours sorted out? Do you have any suggestions?
cheers
 

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Does the bike start and run? I believe the the QS interrupts the coils so I could see the ECU flagging an FI error.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I couldn't find anything wrong even when I disconnected the plug to the strain gauge & fitted the eliminator plug. I took it back to the shop this morning as I thought they can reset it on their computer, but I've heard nothing as yet. It has to be something simple, a fellah at work said to disconnect the battery & see if that resets the ECU, shouldn't do any harm to try. Meanwhile as soon as I know any thing I'll post up.
 

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Does the bike start and run? I believe the the QS interrupts the coils so I could see the ECU flagging an FI error.
No it doesn't start


I couldn't find anything wrong even when I disconnected the plug to the strain gauge & fitted the eliminator plug. I took it back to the shop this morning as I thought they can reset it on their computer, but I've heard nothing as yet. It has to be something simple, a fellah at work said to disconnect the battery & see if that resets the ECU, shouldn't do any harm to try. Meanwhile as soon as I know any thing I'll post up.
Tried disconnecting the battery, it didn't change anything.
I'll wait and see what was the issue with yours is, hopefully its something simple, before I send her in.
thanks.
 

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Might be worth giving HM a call and see if they can shed some light on this issue, their customer service is very good.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
matnz, Just got mine back from the shop, all good now, the tech said it was the exhaust motor. Thats what came up on their computer. I know they had it on the computer because they forgot to refit the cover on the plug under the pillion seat, so I presume thats the servo motor that closes the butterfly in the exhaust pipe when it reaches the db testing rev range. Which also gives us more torque in that range, so they say.
 

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I assume you knocked a connector or something cant understand why that would be involved with a quick shifter ?? were you close to that circuit during the install ?
 

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matnz, Just got mine back from the shop, all good now, the tech said it was the exhaust motor. Thats what came up on their computer. I know they had it on the computer because they forgot to refit the cover on the plug under the pillion seat, so I presume thats the servo motor that closes the butterfly in the exhaust pipe when it reaches the db testing rev range. Which also gives us more torque in that range, so they say.
Would your bike start Mdala?
I've removed the quickshifter and put it back together and I'm still getting the fi coming up and still no start. It's going in on Monday.
 

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Is it turning over but just not firing up ??
 

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Ok, so I'm feeling pretty stupid. I didn't have the plastic shroud around the ignition when I was doing this. I have put it in place and the bike fires up with no fi warning. Dealer told me my key wasn't chipped, it doesn't look like a chipped one so I didn't think it would matter.
I'm having issues with the qs now. Have only been able to get it into setup mode (flashing led for 4 secs) once and cant get the led to flash to signify a gear change as per the stationary test instructions. Seems the only time it will flash is when I turn the ignition on. I've played around with the shift rod length a little which doesn't seem to make any difference. It rotates quite alot on the rose joints I'm wondering if this is the problem but I can't seem to get it any tighter.
Anyone got any tips?
 

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There is supposed to be rotational free play at the rose joints, use the locking nuts on the grub screws to hold the strain gauge firmly in situ on the shift rod and make sure the overall length is equal to that of the original shift rod, ie- shift rod and strain gauge are rigid as one piece but the whole piece has movement at each end where the screw into the rose joints. ( have a look at this link and zoom in )
http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af196/lee71108/GSX%20S1000/2015-08-15%2013.58.38_zpsqqjiwszn.jpg

To Enter Setup Mode:
1. Ensure power is off.
2. Press and hold shift lever firmly in either direction.
3. Power up (do not start engine).
4. Observe LED flash quickly for 4 seconds.
5. When LED stops flashing, release shift lever within 1 second.
Now you will be in Setup Mode.
Which i take you have achieved.

Stationary Test.
Turn the ignition on and watch the LED. The current setting will be signalled once on the LED with either 1,
2 or 3 blips. After this signal, the HM Super Lite is in Normal Operating Mode. With the engine OFF, and
while watching the LED push/pull the shift lever in the direction that would shift gearbox to the next higher
gear (UP for road pattern and DOWN for race pattern). The LED will turn on when a shift is initiated, and
will turn off again once the lever is released. The ideal sensitivity is when the lever needs slight more force
than is required to engage the next gear. If the LED does not turn on, increase sensitivity until it does, just
for this test.


PART 2 ( i performed this whilst on a rear paddock stand )

Sit on the motorcycle and put it into 6th gear. Hold the clutch in and keep it held in for the duration of this
test. The motorcycle must not move. If you can, also hold the brake on. Now start the motorcycle and
raise the RPM to a steady 4000 RPM or above. While holding the engine at this steady RPM, try and shift
into an imaginary 7th gear. Every time you do you should hear the engine RPM dip for a split second.


 
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