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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
What's the deal with R1 shocks , are they better than our stock shock? I owned a few Yamaha's and I always changed the stock shock.
It’s the best stock shock out there. All kinds of adjustments can be made compared to the gsx. It completely changed my bike. Before the shock change my tc would blink constantly in the mountains, now I never see it at all. I believe the stock shock was so stiff that it was bouncing under acceleration, now it just bites.
 

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So I’m thinking about doing this, but wanted to confirm that you are no longer using an adapter. Aside from the battery tray cutting and some grinding, it’s simply unbolt the old shock and bolt in the R1 shock? I understand needing clearance, but isn’t the R1 shock 20mm shorter(or something like that) than the stock shock, requiring an adapter no matter what to keep the same height?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
So I’m thinking about doing this, but wanted to confirm that you are no longer using an adapter. Aside from the battery tray cutting and some grinding, it’s simply unbolt the old shock and bolt in the R1 shock? I understand needing clearance, but isn’t the R1 shock 20mm shorter(or something like that) than the stock shock, requiring an adapter no matter what to keep the same height?
Yep, it bolts right up after making clearance for it. The r1 shock has length adjustment, so between that and a 55 series rear tire I’m pretty much exactly the way it was off the showroom floor in rear height.
 

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It’s the best stock shock out there. All kinds of adjustments can be made compared to the gsx. It completely changed my bike. Before the shock change my tc would blink constantly in the mountains, now I never see it at all. I believe the stock shock was so stiff that it was bouncing under acceleration, now it just bites.
Yea I can understand it's better (R1 shock) than our stock shock. Why not put a Penske which I had built for my weight or a ohlins ?
 

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Pack...can you give me the item number or dimensions for the smaller battery. I know you said to get the one for an Aprilia but I'd like to make sure I get the exact/proper fitting battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yea I can understand it's better (R1 shock) than our stock shock. Why not put a Penske which I had built for my weight or a ohlins ?
I paid $7800 otd for my bike which was a great deal, I can’t justify spending over 1/10 of that on a rear shock when I can’t possibly out ride a R1 shock. All the magazines and track riders I know brag about it and I do too. Yes, ohlins is better but it’s not going to make me any faster and the R1 rides pretty **** good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Pack...can you give me the item number or dimensions for the smaller battery. I know you said to get the one for an Aprilia but I'd like to make sure I get the exact/proper fitting battery.
I think any brand 10 series will work, that’s just the size you need.
 

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Yea I can understand it's better (R1 shock) than our stock shock. Why not put a Penske which I had built for my weight or a ohlins ?
In the end, money. I paid $30 plus shipping for my R1 shock. I'd like to use it, still not sure I want to hack up my subframe though. No problem with the battery tray, but have to think about the subframe part. I'll be thinking about it this winter.

That said, I do have a Penske triple clicker on my FJR. It mostly goes to waste for the majority of my riding, but I got a heck of a deal on it, and since my non-rebuildable stock shock was well worn, it was cheaper than a new stock shock, and still rebuildable..
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
In the end, money. I paid $30 plus shipping for my R1 shock. I'd like to use it, still not sure I want to hack up my subframe though. No problem with the battery tray, but have to think about the subframe part. I'll be thinking about it this winter.

That said, I do have a Penske triple clicker on my FJR. It mostly goes to waste for the majority of my riding, but I got a heck of a deal on it, and since my non-rebuildable stock shock was well worn, it was cheaper than a new stock shock, and still rebuildable..
That’s why I waited almost 2 years to cut mine, ran the plates instead. Looking back I should have just cut it to begin with. I’m not a very big guy anyway and I don’t ever carry any passengers. Yep, for the price of the shock and what you get , hellava good deal.
 

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I paid $7800 otd for my bike which was a great deal, I can’t justify spending over 1/10 of that on a rear shock when I can’t possibly out ride a R1 shock. All the magazines and track riders I know brag about it and I do too. Yes, ohlins is better but it’s not going to make me any faster and the R1 rides pretty **** good.
I hear ya when money is tight you have to take it easy , throw in a wife and kids they come first for sure. I made good money over the years and I didn't have any bad habits except according to my wife... motorcycles. I always had 2 bikes some thing of touring-comfort bike and a sporty bike and since I'm a big guy I always had to do something about suspension. This bike is stiff out of the box and after I got the new ECU from Suzuki I knew I was going to keep this machine so the first year I did the rear from Traxxion, this year I had them build me those AK-20 for the front.Now the bike feels so much better in the curves nice and planted and on the bumps in the road very compliant.... worth ever penny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Thanks Pack...I'm going to get the shock Reagan has and give it a go. Do you have to drop the swing arm to get enough clearance to remove/replace the shock?
I have a decat on my bike so I dropped that and worked with just a jack in between the rear tire and the subframe. To get the R1 shock in 2 years ago I unbolted the subframe and swung it up a little to slid the R1 shock in. I supported the rear of the bike by hanging it. You can run a rod through the hole in the frame and use jacket stands too.
 

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I have a decat on my bike so I dropped that and worked with just a jack in between the rear tire and the subframe. To get the R1 shock in 2 years ago I unbolted the subframe and swung it up a little to slid the R1 shock in. I supported the rear of the bike by hanging it. You can run a rod through the hole in the frame and use jacket stands too.
Thanks again...I have the full M4 so I have a lot of clearance down low.....scissor jack between the tire and under tail section should get me the clearance I need without hanging it, I hope.
 

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Just an update if anyone is thinking about doing this....YES YOU NEED TO DO THIS.
I got Reagans shock and did the install yesterday and yes it's about a 3 hour job. I set the shock at the same length as the stock one and put the setting adjustments in the middle to give me a starting point to get it dialed in.

This shock made all of the difference in the world, I haven't even set the sag yet or made any compression/rebound adjustments and it's so much better. Thanks again for the shock Reagan.

Make sure you get the (TOS) sensor back in it's original/intended position....I was not sure what this sensor (at the time) was so I just tucked it up in the battery area and figured I would find a better more secure place for it when I had more time. I was in a hurry to see how the shock was going to do.

Fired up the bike and it run for 2 seconds and shut off. Thinking to myself "oh **** it's never done that before" Look down and it thru a light and FI on the dash. Put the bike in dealer mode and sure enough it was throwing a C23 code. Found a Suzuki GSX R code list on line and this is a tip over sensor code.

So I repositioned the sensor to it's original/intended position and after several disconnects of the battery I got it to clear it self.

I can't believe how much better the bike handled and it's only going to get better once I get her dialed in :D

Oh...Reagan I haven't forgot about the fly by video, I will be getting one up in a few days now that the shock is done this is next on my list. My buddy with a Go Pro works 2 jobs and he never gets home until after dark so I guess it's up to me and tri pod.
 

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Reading this makes me regret selling that shock...almost.
Glad it's working for you!
 

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Do you have a small battery too?
T

Just an update if anyone is thinking about doing this....YES YOU NEED TO DO THIS.
I got Reagans shock and did the install yesterday and yes it's about a 3 hour job. I set the shock at the same length as the stock one and put the setting adjustments in the middle to give me a starting point to get it dialed in.

This shock made all of the difference in the world, I haven't even set the sag yet or made any compression/rebound adjustments and it's so much better. Thanks again for the shock Reagan.

Make sure you get the (TOS) sensor back in it's original/intended position....I was not sure what this sensor (at the time) was so I just tucked it up in the battery area and figured I would find a better more secure place for it when I had more time. I was in a hurry to see how the shock was going to do.

Fired up the bike and it run for 2 seconds and shut off. Thinking to myself "oh **** it's never done that before" Look down and it thru a light and FI on the dash. Put the bike in dealer mode and sure enough it was throwing a C23 code. Found a Suzuki GSX R code list on line and this is a tip over sensor code.

So I repositioned the sensor to it's original/intended position and after several disconnects of the battery I got it to clear it self.

I can't believe how much better the bike handled and it's only going to get better once I get her dialed in :D

Oh...Reagan I haven't forgot about the fly by video, I will be getting one up in a few days now that the shock is done this is next on my list. My buddy with a Go Pro works 2 jobs and he never gets home until after dark so I guess it's up to me and tri pod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
It’s wonderful having a decent shock on the rear. I’m sure Suzuki could have charged a little more and we could have had a decent ride right out of the gate. A few hundred dollars wouldn’t have made a difference on buying the bike or not.
 

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Just an update if anyone is thinking about doing this....YES YOU NEED TO DO THIS.
I got Reagans shock and did the install yesterday and yes it's about a 3 hour job. I set the shock at the same length as the stock one and put the setting adjustments in the middle to give me a starting point to get it dialed in.

I have a R1 for sale if anyone wants to go this route (Just Saying)...........:)
 

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Do you have a small battery too?
T
Yes...it will not work without the smaller battery, the battery is a 10 series.... more shallow from front to back and works perfectly.

Reagan...….yes you should have kept it, best 110.00 I've spent on the bike so far. Thanks again

I need to thank Pack for re posting this "R1 shock part II"...this is what got my back to into this mod after the Phucket Paul fiascoe...THANKS PACK!!!! :D

I rode the bike to work....I couldn't help it but 30 mins later I left work and started working on the suspension settings and got her dialed in pretty good.

Now I have a bike that rides and handles like a top tier race bike. Seriously it's that much better. Not a BMW 1000 or a Tuono but so much better than stock.
 
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