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Discussion Starter #1
So done the deed and installed these babies. Once you pulled the forks off of the bike and stripped them down they look like this:
http://www.gsxs1000.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23234&thumb=1

Then installed the valves and it looks like this:
http://www.gsxs1000.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23242&thumb=1

Put new oil in, obviously and what a difference! The harshness has gone and the front feels like the back Nitron now, very compliant.

If you are changing the fork gloop you might as well change the compression valve as well.:) No brainer.

I ended up buying a fork compression tool (£60) and made the damper rod tool together with a slotted plate for re-install.

When i have time i will put a "how to" if it helps someone.
 

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Cool! I've often looked at the race tech kits since they are a **** sight cheaper than going to a suspension guru but people always warn me off for fear damaging the forks. I'm comfortable turning a wrench, I've got torque wrenches and I'm not ham fisted. Any special tools or common pitfalls when working on forks to install these kits?
 

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Which valve did you use, Type 1 or G2-R? I couldn't find the GSXS on their site. Is there another application that works on our bikes?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I will stickup a how to later today. It will take some though!

I am off out this morning for a long ride on my favorite bumpby roads, so hopefully i should have a very good idea of what they are like, but initial impression are they are well worth it. I will take a screw driver with and make changes as required.
 

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One of the guys I know, on anther forum, send his fork in to Race Tech, for work. They said he needed new tubes, which added to the cost, but he was 1100.00, all in, to have them do the work.

That price shoudl help justify the few special tools you need to do this work, right? The fork is just not that hard to work on, and even a beginner, who can follow instructions can accomplish this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well done about 110 miles today on the new valves and what a difference.... I have been over some of the worst roads North Wales has to offer and there is definitely a big difference.
The minor bumps are all but gone and the harsh ones are tolerable.
Its difficult to say if its just the valves that are better as i changed the oil too, but i have owned it since new and i dont recall the front feeling so planted when the original oil would have been new.

Anyway i am half way through the "how to" and should be able to post it up tomorrow.
For those that have a good idea they can skip through some of it...anyways happy riding:)
 

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Thanks - looking forward to this. Can't spend a bundle on a brand new bike, but the valves are do-able. Out riding today there were several sharp pavement buckles that really unsettled the suspension, and my back as well. Shock will have to be later, though.
 

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I'm assuming that the instructions included information on oil weight and height and a tuning guide?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the review. I'll certainly be doing this. What weight oil did you use, @greenturbobob, and did you fill to the stock recommended level?
I used stock fork springs for my weight 80kg.
I used stock 5w fork oil Castrol fully synthetic
I used stock dampers settings
I didnt use any preload at all.

Its a wonderful ride now:)
 

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Looking forward to your how to ol lad...... But at bit confused as to what you have changed, except what looks like the fork top....
 

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Thanks for posting the pic with the springs. I thought they felt like progressive rate springs but I never got to see them. I personally like straight rate springs better, but to each his own.
 

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So done the deed and installed these babies. Once you pulled the forks off of the bike and stripped them down they look like this:
http://www.gsxs1000.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23234&thumb=1

Then installed the valves and it looks like this:
http://www.gsxs1000.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23242&thumb=1

Put new oil in, obviously and what a difference! The harshness has gone and the front feels like the back Nitron now, very compliant.

If you are changing the fork gloop you might as well change the compression valve as well.:) No brainer.

I ended up buying a fork compression tool (£60) and made the damper rod tool together with a slotted plate for re-install.

When i have time i will put a "how to" if it helps someone.
Fantastic information , I'm about to put maxton SD 25 cartridges on my gsxs 1000 , I've got the fork compression tool to access the jam nut , how did you find getting the damper rod bolt out at bottom of fork , do you need the special tool ( I've got one from motion Pro ) , in the past I've loosened the bolt at bottom when forks where still all together and it worked for me .any information would be great . Cheers pal.
 

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I know this is an old thread, however I can't tell the difference when I've made adjustments to my suspension, with the only exception being spring tension which makes a bit of a difference if I go straight from minimum to maximum. As for the damper settings they seem to make bugger-all difference whatsoever. I'd go as far to say that I can't tell any difference between the suspension of my 2000 Kwaka ZX9 and my gsxs. You hit a bump, straight or going around a bend, and it feels exactly the same to me. It's a bump. Same as when I listen to bike reviews, they are so technical they talk about tweaking the suspension and I think...???

I'm just putting it out there for discussion and without being judgmental on anyone, but I wonder if we (me included) talk ourselves into things. For example, a trade teacher at the mechanic college I attended said people will often say how much better their car ran after just an oil change. The reason was that the car owner may never use full throttle but as soon as they get their car back they put full throttle to the test and the acceleration they rarely experience surprises them. Once away from college several owners told me their cars ran so much better after a simple oil change. I tried to explain to them that any change in performance would be negligible but they flatly denied it.

I'm just putting it out there for a mutual discussion.
  • If you've the standard suspension, can you tell any difference between any of the damper settings? I know I can't.
  • Do certain suspension upgrades make a tangible difference? And if so, how do you test it - is it through 'feeling' or have you done a before and after test - say on a test track?
 

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I changed my rear shock for a nitron unit, the initial difference was amazing, but it settled in and I then found I had to fine tune the adjustments, there was a definite difference when I adjusted all one way. So then I rode out one afternoon stopping and taking the adjustments one at a time and now its much better for me.
 

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I changed my rear shock for a nitron unit, the initial difference was amazing,
Thanks for that.
Thinking about this suspension thing last night and I remember several years ago my brother-in-law and I were out this day and as usual we swapped bikes (both bikes were Kwaka ZX9s - his was a few years older than mine). When riding his bike I found it was difficult for me to see as my glasses kept moving around as they do when riding over a rough road - but the road wasn't that rough (back roads here in Australia aren't that great). On my bike I had no issues at all and therefore I put it down to his suspension not being right. I remember we swapped bikes several times so I could try and work out what was wrong - couldn't be anything else but suspension settings. After 2 hours of changing bikes etc. I couldn't work out what was wrong. To me, and him, the suspension on both bikes seemed exactly the same. I suggested he take it to a suspension specialist to see what they thought.
I think therefore I have answered my own question. Suspension settings do make a tangible difference it is just that for some strange reason I'm not that sensitive to it. Insensitive is what I am (-:
 
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