Running without a battery

263 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by pilninggas, 2 d ago

Packmule

Discussion Starter · 5 d ago

Will these bikes run without a battery? Once it’s running if you disconnect one of the battery terminals, will it continue to run on its on?
The reason I ask is I’m trying to figure out if my stator is good or not.
My battery is completely dead and I had someone to jumpstart me at work. Once running, if I didn’t keep the revs above 3k it would cut off and would need to be jumped again. Once at home I check the charging with a cheap meter, I have 13v while it’s running. Cheap so no decimal point. The battery wouldn’t do anything in my lawnmower but the lawnmower battery would start the bike and keep it running. I disconnected one terminal and the bike would die immediately. It wouldn’t run even revving the bike without the battery connected. My hayabusa would run with the battery unhooked but these have a lot more electronics than 2003 hayabusa. Any help. If someone has time to crank theirs and see if it will continue to idle for a minute?

Save

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

pilninggas

· #2 · 5 d ago

Should be about 14.4-14.6v when charging.

Personally I wouldn't run it without a battery as the battery acts as a sink for current and if it is not there the regulator has to work much harder (outside of it's designed power capability, sinking a lot of current to ground) and could quickly burn out.

Save

Reactions: 1

Packmule

Discussion Starter · #3 · 5 d ago

Good to know. I was trouble shooting the hayabusa, and I knew it would run with the battery disconnect. This bike seems to eat batteries about once a year, I may have a stator problem then. I just have a cheap clamp meter to test for 110 voltage and it only shows 13 at idle, or when revved. I guess I’ll invest in a nice multimeter before I shell out $225 for a stator, I may or may not need?

Save

pilninggas

· #4 · 5 d ago

Have you checked key connections? Things like the engine earth strap and the main fuse bus bar? Is it all tight and corrosion free?

Replacing batteries yearly seems odd. If the charging voltage is low ( should be 14.4v ish across the battery terminals at more than idle) then I'd look at the regulator/rectifier first, rather than the generator. Regrecs have to work really hard.

Save

Reactions: 1

hugojose

· #5 · 5 d ago

If any vehicle 'EATS' battery, then you have a problem on charging system....Alternator, or Regulator/Rectifier,....or you may have a current draw problem, when bike not running.....and you find that out by connecting an Ammeter in series with battery terminal...any. It should not be more than 30 milliamps. Or 0.03 amps

Have never run a GSX-S w/out a battery.......but have done it on another older bike. The bike ran, but revs were dancing all over the place, and the reasons was the battery acts as base- line provider of electrical power......meaning you have to rev the bike for these alternators to provide power enough for ignition....at idle is just not enough by itself....and battery supplements

You test the alternator by doing the opposite you suggested. .......by disconnecting the alternator, and running the bike ONLY on battery, or jump starter.........then reading the voltage on all three phases.....this is AC power, not DC.......Repeat.this is AC power, not DC before the Regulator/Rectifier.....and at 5000 rpm should be 65 VAC.

Easiest ways is simply reading voltage on battery terminals at 5000 rpms. It should be above 14 VDC to be capable of charging battery.

Manual also has resistance tests on phases on the connecter.....0.12 to 0.12 ohms

I

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

Packmule

Discussion Starter · #6 · 5 d ago

I’m ordering a new and better multimeter today that way I can properly check everything. Nothing loose or corroded and only aftermarket turn signal’s have been added, those connections are intact.

pilninggas said:
Have you checked key connections? Things like the engine earth strap and the main fuse bus bar? Is it all tight and corrosion free?

Replacing batteries yearly seems odd. If the charging voltage is low ( should be 14.4v ish across the battery terminals at more than idle) then I'd look at the regulator/rectifier first, rather than the generator. Regrecs have to work really hard.
[/QUOT

pilninggas said:
Have you checked key connections? Things like the engine earth strap and the main fuse bus bar? Is it all tight and corrosion free?

Replacing batteries yearly seems odd. If the charging voltage is low ( should be 14.4v ish across the battery terminals at more than idle) then I'd look at the regulator/rectifier first, rather than the generator. Regrecs have to work really hard.

Save

Packmule

Discussion Starter · #7 · 2 d ago

Well after purchasing a much better meter, my stator checks good and I’m getting a constant 14.6 at idle and all the way to 5000 rpms. It never fluctuates from idle up, so from my reading the reg/rec is doing it’s job as well.

Save

Packmule

Discussion Starter · #8 · 2 d ago

See less See more

Save

pilninggas

· #9 · 2 d ago

I would advise you to take it for a run and see what voltage you get afterwards - loads like fuel injectors pull more power when you are riding, also components will be heat soaked and any issues may be pronounced.

Save

Reactions: 1

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

Top Contributors this Month