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Discussion Starter #1
This has been happening to me very inconsistently, but about 6 times over the past 2 weeks when I've first started my bike the brake lever will go to the handlebars. I'll then pump the lever again and it will be a little better, then a third pump usually puts it where it should be. Brake feels normal for the rest of the ride. The length of time the bike has been sitting between rides doesn't seem to matter as I can leave it for 2 days and it might be fine, leave it for a few hours and it might be soft.

I took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything. I had them flush and bleed the brakes anyway but the problem persists.

Any ideas here?
 

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There was a recall for leaking brake calipers for early bikes. There is a thread here about it. Check your VIN number against the range of affected bikes.

Could also be a failing M/C

Might be a good idea to let another dealer look at it too
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies.

I had the recall done on the calipers back when it was new.

I tried the zip tie thing and after a couple hours I checked it and the lever was soft to the handlebars. I don't know what that means or if that is the expected result.
 

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It means something is leaking causing the loss of line pressure. Seal, hose or fitting is leaking. Doesn't take much of a leak to get the symptom you describe.
 

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my 2016 has been doing this randomly but i suspect its mostly due to some air trapped or created ( from boiling ) somewhere in the system as the lever comes back after a few hard uses....ABS pipework isn't easy to bleed and as mine isn't a major problem i'm leaving it for now..... if however i had a track day planned i'd take the time to sort it....my 2013 Hayabusa was the same so for me its the ABS plumbing etc holding air....took 3 or 4 bleeds to sort the Hayabusa ( even the dealer had a go ) and it never felt as solid as the 2012 non ABS model a mate had.
 

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I just got a new 2017 and am very much down on information on these things, but I noticed a bleed valve on the master cylinder. Been a while since I've had a Japanese motorcycle for the street that had one of them but if I had the problem, I'd give that a try at bleeding. However, you have the ABS model. I don't have experience with those and that factor might contribute to a problem.

Let us know how it goes.
 

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I don't doubt you might have air in there somewhere (I bled mine about four times when it was new) but that would make a spongy lever. Seems to me for it to go to the bar means fluid is getting by the seal in the master cylinder. If it is still under warranty I would insist the dealer replace it. If not under warranty, you could replace, or maybe there's a rebuild kit. Maybe it hasn't happened while riding, but who knows if it will? Just my $.02.

Edit: Actually, after thinking about it, I don't think I would do a rebuild, but replace the whole thing. There could be a defect in the metal parts as opposed to the rubber parts.
 

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Whilst rebleeding mine today I think mine may have a seal in the master leaking under pressure...can't be totally sure as the reservoir was full and may have leaked out the cap as i unscrewed it.
Something to keep an eye on but even after an hour of careful bleeding the lever still has some spongy action....much less than before but i'd like better.
 

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I wonder by chance if you guys having the issue have aftermarket levers? I have aftermarket levers and wonder if they could cause a leak by pushing the plunger rod with too much side load from poorly designed geometry.
 

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I wonder by chance if you guys having the issue have aftermarket levers? I have aftermarket levers and wonder if they could cause a leak by pushing the plunger rod with too much side load from poorly designed geometry.
Yes I do and that side loading is entirely possible.
Planning to change the master anyway as I've never liked the cheap look of it.... just waiting to see which one suits best vs price.
 

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Yes I do and that side loading is entirely possible.
Planning to change the master anyway as I've never liked the cheap look of it.... just waiting to see which one suits best vs price.
Our bikes have some of the best front calipers money can buy. To complete the front brakes to true superbike spec I would buy a Brembo radial front M/C. Not cheap, the the best never is. I'd get the adjustable ratio model, so you can compensate for road conditions and pad compounds. Model 19 RCS, about $300 plus plan on about $50 for the reserviour kit.
 

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Yes I do and that side loading is entirely possible.
Planning to change the master anyway as I've never liked the cheap look of it.... just waiting to see which one suits best vs price.
Our bikes have some of the best front calipers money can buy. To complete the front brakes to true superbike spec I would buy a Brembo radial front M/C. Not cheap, the the best never is. I'd get the adjustable ratio model, so you can compensate for road conditions and pad compounds. Model 19 RCS, about $300 plus plan on about $50 for the reserviour kit.
Suzuki spec Nissin master cylinder have always been inferior to the versions used by Honda and Kawasaki.... my zzr1400 had brakes that make anything suzuki has ever offered feel like your squeezing a sponge.....which gives me an idea
 

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check for leaks everywhere from the master cylinder all the way down to the calipers. Make sure doesn't get on the paint if it is leaking since it'll destroy. If not you definitely have air in the system


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