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Discussion Starter #1
My 2016 stock G thou with 3k which i owned for 6months and used daily, normally starts on the button at half a starter spin. Almost immediately.
2 separate occasions now, i got to start the bike and it spins (quickly) maybe 3, 4 times and starts. Cant recreate it, battery is spot on and no other faults, rides normally. I am worried this could be a precursor to something that is about to show / fail. Any input appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Temps good, dry sunny 12 Celsius. Happened after a ride, short break around 7-10 mins prior to restart. Always wait for system check and fuel prime.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With regards to battery, certainly doesn't act like a **** one. The cranks are quite strong its not bogging down flickering or any of the other usual signs
 

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What are the temperatures like where you live? Are you still waiting for the fuel pump to prime before you hit the switch?
This was my thought too. Mine did the same after not being run for a day and in 10°C. Still started in under half a second, compared to my brother's fz10, same circumstances that took about a second and a half on the starter...
 

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Hmmm, my initial leaning would be spark plugs, but that's a lot of work just to check without a stronger indication.

But, here's my thinking. 2006 with only 3k miles sounds it spent a lot of its life sitting around, which if not properly prepped for storage is not great on spark plugs. Condensation from atmospheric moisture and left over water vapor from combustion can corrode spark plugs over time. Also the spark plugs can be damaged by freeze thaw cycles due to climate if there's water vapor. If the bike only sat for a short time before restart, it would have still been relatively hot. Electrical resistance increases with temperature, especially through insulative materials, which metallic oxides usually are. If the spark is losing amperage through resistance in the electrode surfaces, it may not be energetic enough to ignite until a couple cycles. Now, when I said the engine was relatively hot, that depends on what you're looking at, in terms of ignition enthalpy, that's a little cold; but for electrical resistance, that's still pretty hot. So the ignition energy threshold, what the spark has to give it, is higher than when running, but each no-start cycle increases the cylinder enthalpy through the spark heating the plug and the compression heating piston and cylinder, until the spark can push the reaction over that edge. On a cold start, resistance in the spark plugs is lower, and so the spark is more energetic, quick start.
 

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With regards to battery, certainly doesn't act like a **** one. The cranks are quite strong its not bogging down flickering or any of the other usual signs
Just throwing this out there as a possibility

There was another thread where OP had a similar problem on start up, checking with a volt meter the battery showed strong 13+ volts, but later found the amperage (cranking power) was slightly down, just enough to cause a problem. As I said , if you are running the original battery, 3 years is a long time. I would certainly try a new battery or possibly jumper cables to eliminate the battery as the cause.
 

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My 2017 V Strom 1000 used to grind over for the full automatic start cycle and then stop, the motor not firing up. It would then fire on the first brush of the button. It did this every time.
It kept doing this for months, then suddenly fixed itself and fires first up.
Whether it had it's first Dealer Service at the 1000 KM and that fixed it I can't remember now, but it was around that time as I was not riding it much then and the first service was quite delayed, I do remember that.
They didn't change the battery I do know that as I looked under the seat to make sure the terminals were left tight.
A year or more later is still good.

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks folks. Ill keep an eye, it will run out of warranty coming summer. Battery is the go to initially as its easy to replace. I highly doubt its fuel. Sparks too young for this. Just wanna make sure its not the starting system as it is a pig to deal with. Will see and will update.
 

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Battery is the most likely in my opinion too.
If the battery is weak to start with and then you charge it (ie take it for a ride) it will be busy bubbling away until it cools down. In this state it will be weaker than when you started. Which is probably why it starts from cold okay but not after a few minutes shut down during a run.
You used to be able to desulphate a lead acid battery but I'm not sure what the battery plates are made from in this bike
 

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I'd also say battery, modern bikes will turn over on the button but won't fire as the spark and fuel aren't initiated by the ECU until it see's steady voltage.

A scenario like this is what causes this problem:

Test battery volts before using the bike=you get 12.8 volts or very similar, you turn the bike on, let it run it's check and fire it up no problem.
You then go for a ride, maybe in town and not really generating a real return of charge to the battery, you test it when you stop=12.6 volts.
You have a coffee come back, test the battery again=12.8 volts, key on, let it do it's startup check, battery now reads 12.4 volts, you hit the button, volts drop to 10 volts and the bike won't start initially. It's this drop to 10 volts that causes the reluctant start or non start as the ECU is looking for 11.8 volts or more on cranking to energise spark and injectors. A lot of modern bikes won't do anything more than illuminate the clocks if the battery is below 11 volts.

Give it a try as I have come across this on a few occasions on modern fuel injected bikes. It's all down to the checks built into the ECU software that allow the bike to run.
 
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