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I have done the TPS voltage thing with the pigtail. It is at 1.10v currently, I have a new ECU. Bike runs fine except for one area, light throttle at cruising speed low rpm area 2500-4500 range it is still a jitter bug. Chugging type feeling and I feel it only when throttle is barely on when trying to maintain a steady speed. I am not sure if this is a EPA thing which would be in the mapping and could be resolved by spending money on a external device such as a power commander or flashing the ecu to some extent. All I know is I cannot stand this the way it is now. Bike is just no fun to ride with a chain snatching chugging feeling I am getting trying to maintain a constant throttle or speed in the rpm range I mentioned.

Just thinking out loud for a minute would moving the TPS to say 1.12v or anything higher than the current 1.10v maybe help this condition? The manual specs 1.10v to 1.14v so I gotta think the range is there for a reason and not all two bikes are the same so to speak. Maybe 1.10 works on this bike but 1.14 may work best on another. I think I will attempt to do this later today after work. Really disappoints me that I may have to spend a lot of money on this bike to get this fueling issue fixed. I wanted a stock trouble free easy to ride and own street bike, this is not what I ended up with in the 2016 GSX-S1000.
 

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I have done the TPS voltage thing with the pigtail. It is at 1.10v currently, I have a new ECU. Bike runs fine except for one area, light throttle at cruising speed low rpm area 2500-4500 range it is still a jitter bug. Chugging type feeling and I feel it only when throttle is barely on when trying to maintain a steady speed. I am not sure if this is a EPA thing which would be in the mapping and could be resolved by spending money on a external device such as a power commander or flashing the ecu to some extent. All I know is I cannot stand this the way it is now. Bike is just no fun to ride with a chain snatching chugging feeling I am getting trying to maintain a constant throttle or speed in the rpm range I mentioned.

Just thinking out loud for a minute would moving the TPS to say 1.12v or anything higher than the current 1.10v maybe help this condition? The manual specs 1.10v to 1.14v so I gotta think the range is there for a reason and not all two bikes are the same so to speak. Maybe 1.10 works on this bike but 1.14 may work best on another. I think I will attempt to do this later today after work. Really disappoints me that I may have to spend a lot of money on this bike to get this fueling issue fixed. I wanted a stock trouble free easy to ride and own street bike, this is not what I ended up with in the 2016 GSX-S1000.
Cheapish cure is a BoosterPlug..... go look at my posts I learnt the expensive way
 

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If it were me, I would try some different voltage adjustments on the TPS, like you said. Except for your time, that's basically free. After that, maybe BoosterPlug, ftecu, PC, etc.
 

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Me too! I have tried to adjust TPS after new ecu fitted.

it was at 1.14 v and dash showed -C00. I have adjusted in 1.11 v and dash shows me _C00 when idle closed. Since this moment, engine is working worse.



I must try to adjust it again
 

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Try an O2 eliminator.

I found the constant throttle problem pretty much disappeared when I unplugged the O2 sensor as part of my Woolich install (before I had made any changes to the ECU).
I believe the issue is caused in the closed loop section of the mapping with the O2 sensor, exhaust valve and pair system all working at low RPM (possibly against each other). I'm no technical expert on this matter but things improved for me by disconnecting the O2 sensor (with ECU 'FI' disabled)
 

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I noticed after I had the uprated ecu fitted the constant throttle was cured but as you all know not the snatchy throttle....:)
 

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Mine is perfect everywhere. Old model ECU, whatever they'd set the TPS at when I got it (white line appears to be aligned to factory settings). PCV + Autotune. Couldn't be happier. Can putt around in 1st gear at 15Km/h like a scooter rider, then throw it open and hit 100Km/h in a stupid pace. I'm genuinely sorry that your bike isn't the same as mine.
 

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I have to agree with the power commander route......In the exact range that you are talking about I have been able to smooth things out just playing around with the stock PCV map....which smoothed things out all on its own to begin
 

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I have done the TPS voltage thing with the pigtail. It is at 1.10v currently, I have a new ECU. Bike runs fine except for one area, light throttle at cruising speed low rpm area 2500-4500 range it is still a jitter bug. Chugging type feeling and I feel it only when throttle is barely on when trying to maintain a steady speed. I am not sure if this is a EPA thing which would be in the mapping and could be resolved by spending money on a external device such as a power commander or flashing the ecu to some extent. All I know is I cannot stand this the way it is now. Bike is just no fun to ride with a chain snatching chugging feeling I am getting trying to maintain a constant throttle or speed in the rpm range I mentioned.

Just thinking out loud for a minute would moving the TPS to say 1.12v or anything higher than the current 1.10v maybe help this condition? The manual specs 1.10v to 1.14v so I gotta think the range is there for a reason and not all two bikes are the same so to speak. Maybe 1.10 works on this bike but 1.14 may work best on another. I think I will attempt to do this later today after work. Really disappoints me that I may have to spend a lot of money on this bike to get this fueling issue fixed. I wanted a stock trouble free easy to ride and own street bike, this is not what I ended up with in the 2016 GSX-S1000.


I feel you. I bought this bike knowing I will have to do air/fuel mapping adjustments to it. I was pleasantly surprised that the stock map that came for our bikes with the power commander worked so great and I didn't have to fiddle with it. I started falling in love with this bike only after that. Before it was a bucking horse and a half full on the track. Annoying on the road. Had the lady yell at me thinking I was intentionally playing with the throttle to piss her off lol.

If you just want the smoothness then the power commander is what you need.

Your other option which might be less work is to do a mail in reflash of the ecu but that completely depends on who will do it for you.

The pcv cleared my snatch... whoa that sounds wrong

Then did a $200 ecu reflash which removed the retarted timing... again sounds bad... and the deceleration cutoff which enhances the snatchiness. But it also increased the redline, and a few more things. But I felt the engine was a bit more snatchy since it had clearly more power in the first three gears (retarted timing)

Later I did arrow headers and added an auto tune and there is no snatch what so ever. Any rpm! It's the smoothest bike I've ever ridden.

I feel the best thing is the pcv since this is a AFR issue. And you can always try new maps as people will post or dynojet. And if you ever change anything on your bike intake/exhaust etc you'll need a remap for your bike to run well.

There's also pcv competitors like bazaaz and rapid bike but here power commander is the most used and that's what shops and people have experience with.

The reason I wasn't upset is because I know all manufacturers are strangled by emissions and the bike was such a great deal that another $300 for a power commander wasn't bad. And you also get a better running, stronger bike and flexibility when upgrading it later on.

Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Mine's fixed. 2016F model, almost one year old . I had all the problems expressed here, and have 10K miles. I saw a video on U tube with an editor from Motorcyclist mag. riding a 2017 to his office. He claimed that the 2017 was much improved. So I called Suzuki Customer Relations and explained the above and asked if I could have the 2017 ECU ? They said they would call me back, and did a day later and said yes. I gave them my dealers name and address. They said if the dealer will acknowledge the symptoms, Suzuki will replace the ECU. It's done and what a difference.
I asked my dealer if Suzuki would replace the ECU on bikes out of warranty? and he said yes on a case by case basis, using the 5 year emissions warranty. The key here is to get the 2017 ECU. Cost on paper is $1300 which Suzuki pays. I would encourage all of you to consider this upgrade. I can ride at 1500 RPM in 6th gear with no snatch, although I don't.
 

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Wonder why Suzuki just doesn't flash a new program on our original ECU instead of replacing it? Car dealers can update your ECU with a new download to to it, I don't see why Suzuki can't do the same.

I too feel for you guys who have has so many problems with your bikes. I got lucky I guess and got a good one. From the day I rode it home I have never had steady speed or cruising issues. I just have a wee bit of snatch on initial throttle application, but nothing I would consider annoying. My throttle cable play from the dealer was waaaay too much. The adjuster was not even tightened down, leading me to believe the tech who assembled my bike never made the free play adjustment. After proper adjustment the throttle feels much better. The thing I have noticed the most is a bit of driveline lash. My chain was a bit loose from the dealer. A quick adjustment and its he right tension but still I have a bit of lash....but it may also be I'm just used to belt drive cruisers for the last 20 years. Might just be a normal amount of lash for a chain driven bike.

Good luck to the OP, I hope you get your bike working well. Once its sorted, it's a fantastic bike. Fast, quick, comfy and great handling.

BTW, where are you guys getting the arrow headers from and how much??
 

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So an ECU replacement fixes the problem. Some people have the problem, some people don't (and it seems rather random). Seems to me that Suzuki had some "bad" ECUs, and just figured it didn't warrant a recall (maybe based on the percent of bad), but it looks like if people complain, they can get a replacement. Probably not the most "take the high road" approach, which would have been a recall, but maybe they had no way of knowing which ECUs were bad, and which ones were good, so it would have meant a recall for all bikes which could have been really expensive for them.
I'm sure the response of requesting a replacement will vary from dealer to dealer, but I'd be interested to hear the responses of people that have requested a replacement... and if you have had the problem and haven't requested a replacement ECU, get cracking!
;)
 

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It would really help (particularly on this Throttle Snatch topic) if people had their locations in their Avatars or signatures or whatever. The throttle snatch could be related to region, but it's hard to say w/o knowing where people are from.

My 2016 US bikes took some getting used to, and some slight adjusting of the chain and throttle cable. I wasn't concerned with throttle snatch at all for most riding conditions. In high-performance canyon riding I noticed that I had to pay more attention to throttle management, where extra throttle would push me a little wide. I also noticed at that level I don't want to be taking attention away from anything else (my line, traction/feedback, road conditions, etc) so my preference is to get the ECU re-mapped.
 

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I have tried O2 eliminator some days ago; I did not find any difference. I removed it
Hi

When was your bike built?
Post feb 2016 has new model ECU- I had older version on my F but Suzuki Australia replaced it with later unit and I also have done TPS
O2 eliminator worked for me.
 

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I have tried O2 eliminator some days ago; I did not find any difference. I removed it
Hi

When was your bike built?
Post feb 2016 has new model ECU- I had older version on my F but Suzuki Australia replaced it with later unit and I also have done TPS
O2 eliminator worked for me.
Hi! I don't know where is built date.
The documents are signed on 08/05/2015 (august '15) so, I think my bike was made in July 2015.
I bought it on January '16
 

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Hi! I don't know where is built date.
The documents are signed on 08/05/2015 (august '15) so, I think my bike was made in July 2015.
I bought it on January '16
The build date is on a sticker on the front left side of the frame and can be seen looking down into the left side of the cockpit. The build date is at the top of that sticker.
 

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It would really help (particularly on this Throttle Snatch topic) if people had their locations in their Avatars or signatures or whatever. The throttle snatch could be related to region, but it's hard to say w/o knowing where people are from.

My 2016 US bikes took some getting used to, and some slight adjusting of the chain and throttle cable. I wasn't concerned with throttle snatch at all for most riding conditions. In high-performance canyon riding I noticed that I had to pay more attention to throttle management, where extra throttle would push me a little wide. I also noticed at that level I don't want to be taking attention away from anything else (my line, traction/feedback, road conditions, etc) so my preference is to get the ECU re-mapped.
What is your fork rebound set at? I'm no expert, but from what i have read running wide on corner exits can be caused by not enough rebound damping up front. Not enough rebound lets the fork extend too quickly during acceleration, running you wide. Might want to increase it and see if it helps.

I don't know if the throttle issue is regional, seems like some folks in the US have had issues too, though the bulk of it seems to be non-US bikes. Don't know why it would make a difference as all the bikes meet euro 4 standards right? I would assume the engine setiings would be the same as far a fueing and ignition.

My bike seems to fuel well. No surging issue, easy to maintain constant speeds and just a wee bit of snatch if not deliberate with the throttle. My biggest niggle is drive line lash, even after adjusting the chain, there is still a smidge of lash....but I may just be noticing it because this is my first chain driven bike in 20 years. Might be perfectly normal.

Its a great bike. Only downside is it makes want to ride way too fast!!! Rolling on the throttle is addictive on this bike.
 
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