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regarding the noise sounds like the Cam tensioner is close to jumping another thread to retention the chain, it's common on these bikes and sounds like a loud rattle.
In that case could you "force" it to jump another tooth by loosening the bolts just a touch, and retightening?
 

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You can reset the tensioner if inclined but personally I'd run the engine flush first then oil change and see what happens, but if it quieter once warmed up it could an initial lack of lubrication from the sludge.
 

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Yes I have manually reset a auto suzuki cam chain tensioner on a loud 05 GSX-R750 that would only do this on cold start ups. Even replaced the tensioner with a new one only for it to continue to do it. I reset it by removing the bolt on back of tensioner and the spring and inserted a small allen wrench long in first and applied a little thumb pressure to the wrench as I turned the engine over with a wrench on the ingiter side (riders right) and felt the click on the rachet mechanisim from the tensioner. Key to this is turning the engine over very slowly with the wrench on the igniter side in the direction of normal crankshaft rotation. It'll force the tensioner to do its job with pressure appiled manually to it by the allen key inserted in the back of the tensioner. You do not want to force it with greater force than thumb pressure or you risk going more than one click on the tensioner shaft. The teeth on the tensioner shaft are really fine and close together.

Disclaimer: this is not hard to do but does require a little knowledge of how things work inside the engine. Never remove the tensioner completely without the valve cover off or at least the igniter side engine cover off. You risk the chain jumping a tooth on the upper sprockets when the tensioner is completely removed and no tension on the chain. If you do remove a tensioner completely without doing any of the above then at least turn the engine over manually a few times afterwards to make sure there is no valve to piston interference.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
last updates : i change oil , and oil filter on new . also , i take off bolt on tensioner ,take a pressure with wrench and move it to next click . buuuuuut ! i have still same noise ... ((( i don't know what to do else ... (((
 

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Discussion Starter #45
thinking about listening engine with special tool . i start engine , warm it up , and listening to several areas of engine . then i will try to listening it on cold , when the noise is coming and will try to find noise place .
 

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Did you buy and run the ENGINE FLUSH through the engine before draining the old oil? I think your top end is 'oil starved' due to that white sludge blocking the oil passages. The ENGINE FLUSH was meant to help clean those blockages. New oil is great, but if you didn't do the ENGINE FLUSH first...not much is new, so nothing will change, at least not right away.



That is great you were able to get the cam chain tensioner to click to the next 'notch'. It eliminates THAT as the potential cause of your noise. I still think this is an oil pressure related problem since the noise diminishes as the bike warms up. Maybe you'll be able to pinpoint where the noise is coming from and be able to disassemble enough to figure out a fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Did you buy and run the ENGINE FLUSH through the engine before draining the old oil? I think your top end is 'oil starved' due to that white sludge blocking the oil passages. The ENGINE FLUSH was meant to help clean those blockages. New oil is great, but if you didn't do the ENGINE FLUSH first...not much is new, so nothing will change, at least not right away.



That is great you were able to get the cam chain tensioner to click to the next 'notch'. It eliminates THAT as the potential cause of your noise. I still think this is an oil pressure related problem since the noise diminishes as the bike warms up. Maybe you'll be able to pinpoint where the noise is coming from and be able to disassemble enough to figure out a fix.
no , i didn't use engine flush , people form service tell me , it's not gonna do something , just warm up engine that's it .so , i don't know what it can be . yesterday was ride in cold weather , so condensate was gone form oil window .
 

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The white sludge you saw when you pulled the cover on your engine is from water in your oil. And since you confirmed your coolant level was fine and not changing, the only other way you have that much moisture in your engine is from condensation that isn't getting burned off due to short trips (i.e., the bike never gets run long and hard enough to vaporize the water in the oil.) So that "sludge" has built up in the oil passages inside your engine and isn't going to go away on it's own. It needs something to 'liquify' it so it will 'flow' and once that happens you can drain it out during your oil change. That's why we were advising you to do the ENGINE FLUSH first (put it in, run the bike to warm it up and let the 'flush' circulate, THEN change the oil.)


I do wish you the best of luck in sorting the problem out. Perhaps if you run the bike on some longer trips the regular engine oil will heat up and break the sludge down in time. I don't know. That was a lot of white sludge. Time will tell I suppose.
 

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I'd doubt the need for a solvent additive being that his engine has only 5000km. So long as his oil change was while the oil was fully hot, another full heat oil change might be worth it though. We're not seeing sludge as in baked oil, but water.
As to the noise, it may be time for a mechanic to give you an opinion
 

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just take a long highway ride bring it up to temp its normal...every forum every bike known to man including cars get milky cream stuff with short rides...we just happen to see it because of sight glass......if we had a dip stick it wouldent be a problem now would it.....now if theres white smoke blowing out your exhaust then worry...white stuff traps water keeps it in paste form untill it heats up and burns off...if your oil additives worn out over time it would just be water floating on the top ,,now ,thats not good....dam before you know it the kid will be rebuilding his bike ...
 

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The milkshake is a separate issue and sounds like he's delt with it. Still think the noise is starter related, if clutch cover was replaced after an accident so was the starter cover and perhaps internal parts also, or maybe worse reused.
Do you have the repair manual? Just to be sure everything is assembled correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
The milkshake is a separate issue and sounds like he's delt with it. Still think the noise is starter related, if clutch cover was replaced after an accident so was the starter cover and perhaps internal parts also, or maybe worse reused.
Do you have the repair manual? Just to be sure everything is assembled correctly.
i don't have manual , but i check it , and it's turn just one way , also , check it with listening tool , while engine was running , and noise is coming not from this area .

if you have electronic version of service manual , please share it .
 

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Discussion Starter #54
3 days , i ride much long time before and after work ( -3 C in my country , but ride anyway)))) so , there is no white shake in oil glass . noise is same . maybe it need time .

also have a quastion , can a throttle bodies make such a noise ?
 

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No I have a physical copy
Primary throttle is mechanical, I guess there's secondary that is motor controlled, the exhaust valve is motor controlled, that noise would eminate from the rear shock area. I would think either of those would throw a code if malfunctioning. Is bike stored outside? Icing might be an issue if so, but again I imagine an iced up electric motor would throw a code if it encountered unexpected resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
No I have a physical copy
Primary throttle is mechanical, I guess there's secondary that is motor controlled, the exhaust valve is motor controlled, that noise would eminate from the rear shock area. I would think either of those would throw a code if malfunctioning. Is bike stored outside? Icing might be an issue if so, but again I imagine an iced up electric motor would throw a code if it encountered unexpected resistance.
no , bike is in garage , but there is cold , nearly same that outside temperature . there is no FI light on odo , so there is no reason to troubleshoot code run i think yes ?
 

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You're only able to view currently active codes. Historical codes would only be available if you have the Suzuki tool.
The secondary throttle valve actuator is there just above the frame rail on the throttle body assembly. I have no idea if it tries to move on start up or if it could produce such a noise though.
 

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