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Discussion Starter #863 (Edited)
picked up bike with new rotors felt smooth and strong no shudder
ebc xc series contour brake rotor MD3109XC 1710-3517...look pretty cool
what ever this means....measured disc runout right .001 left .010 spec .012 left disc close to limit
 

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Discussion Starter #871
after having new pads and disc,, took her for a 40 mile ride mostly highway . noticed putting it away she didnt roll that easy not bad but little drag...right disc felt cool left was hot....took her back to dealer next day , short 2 mile ride.....so really no heat up on disc little not much....look at me like i have two heads ...ask if i want to wait said no....ill leave it so you can take your time....couple days later over phone said they found problem....said something about axle and pinch bolts not set right at fork...can someone explain that ...think they said something about pushing up and down on forks......they did all the brake and disc work and installed tires ..... beers on me
 

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Discussion Starter #873
shop did it right this time.. bike rolls free and both disc run cool same temp as each other shes feeling great..and have to say the 50 tires feel great...has a shape like the 55...just gives a better feel for average street riding and blasting down the highway.......like the lower feel
 

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"said they found problem....said something about axle and pinch bolts not set right at fork...can someone explain that ...think they said something about pushing up and down on forks......they did all the brake and disc work and installed tires ..... beers on me "

Hi Stocky,
Page 6-50 of the Owners Manual
13. Hold the fork and tighten the axle hex nut to the torque setting
14. Torque down the axle hex nut side 2 fork clamping bolts. (the LHS from the front of the bike)
15. Remove the jack/lifter from the bike
16. Place the bike in a stable position and bounce the front of the bike up and down several times
17. Torque the axle's internal hex side 2 fork clamping bolts (the RHS from the front)
18. Re install the brake calipers etc etc.

If not done int this order, the 2 forks can be left in a twist.
Personally, I prefer to put an allen key into the internal hex to counter the twisting torque with a spanner while torquing the axle nut, rather than just bracing the fork with my right hand.
I'll bet the fork wasn't braced at all and everything was just torqued up as is, where is, after the axle nut was torqued tight as with the air gun, with pressure suitable for a tractor trailer wheel .

Rob.
 

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WHOA ! :oops:
There hasn't been a post here for 3 whole months.
Our Stocky surely will be getting worried that those big Carp Fishies are not biting on this Threaded line. Is the water too hot ?
So I'll bump it back up to the top.

Rob.
 

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Discussion Starter #876
yup carp fishing slow ... been doing lots of highway blasts where the loung closed down for the flu....i check the forum every morning before work...the 16 is still ripping up the highways.....thanks for checking in
 

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Discussion Starter #877
been hitting the highway a little harder then usual lot more wot pulls,,,,been getting slight wobble around 8000 rpm when she starts pulling hard then settles down...i only enjoy that type of riding so it bugged me...only happens at wot....rear shock was set on 1 softest tryed 2 wobble still there set to 3 and bingo ...5 hard wot pulls against my buddys 2020 gsxr wobble gone...sure i was behind but felt great not having to let off...
 

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been hitting the highway a little harder then usual lot more wot pulls,,,,been getting slight wobble around 8000 rpm when she starts pulling hard then settles down...i only enjoy that type of riding so it bugged me...only happens at wot....rear shock was set on 1 softest tryed 2 wobble still there set to 3 and bingo ...5 hard wot pulls against my buddys 2020 gsxr wobble gone...sure i was behind but felt great not having to let off...
Isn't that just the front end getting light? I've also experienced this at the higher rpm at high speeds when WOT.
I just figured due to lack of any wheelie experience that a slight asymmetric input on the bars might cause this.
It hasn't been bad enough for me to worry about. I kinda liked the thrill, added to the excitement.
 

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Discussion Starter #879
id say yes front getting light with to soft setting in rear for that kind of riding just thought id throw it out there......nothing bugged me more then gaining on a bike then wobble kicks in
 

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Hi Stocky,
I can't recall if you have a F. But I'll assume so with all your high speed antics.
#3 setting is the stock Suzuki setting for an F, so wonder why it just works so fine.

I've been fiddling with my Naked's suspension setting's for the first time over the last fortnight of good fine but very dry & cold 20C weather.
I found for me, stock rear with a smidge less rebound, about a third more rotation of the front preload, stock rebound there was pretty good.

BUT a extra quarter turn of front fork compression has really steadied the bike over crap back roads.
The rear shock was OK, the front end was my main issue to fix up.

Imagine a carpenter's claw hammer, slightly bouncing at the front face and dead steady on the hand grip end for the last 3,000 KM.
The suspension has bedded in, the initial fork striction worn in, so time for a fiddle with the clickers.

It's a better bike now, but really the insufficient front compression is what did it, rather than the el cheapo shocks hard compression being the major factor.
I suppose you could say its balanced AND PLANTED at both ends in regards to compression now, and it's even GREATER a Bike than before.

Rob.
 
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