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Guys, I know that many people are talking about the binary nature of the throttle on our beloved bike, which is the downside of both having a modern bike constrained by global emissions standards, and the desire to produce a bike with immediate throttle response. I've ordered a PCV to sort my fuelling, but I thought I'd share something that I did this morning that actually helped a little.

One of the only places that I find the throttle really annoying is the roundabout at the end of my street. I go around it every morning while I'm still cold, and so is my bike. There's some broken road surface across the width of the road, which creates some bumps mid-turn. Because of the low speed, I'd often find myself bouncing off the closed throttle position, making my turn look anything but smooth and elegant.

I soon realised that part of the problem is that my bike was delivered with +3mm of play in the throttle cable. It was literally a 30-second operation to slide back the rubber sheath and tweak the adjuster to bring it back to 1mm.

I know this might sound minor, but it made a difference to me as it may to others.
 

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First thing I did was reduce the free play. I'm not at all concerned about the immediate awesome the throttle delivers. I just hate sloppy throttles.
 

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That cable play is a big deal, and needs to be set correctly. People often avoid it because of the dual cables.

Reason for two cables is safety. Back in the old days, a throttle cable could break and the throttle sticks wide open. Just tap the kill switch? No. Often times, with a fully open throttle, the kill switch would not function. So, we now have two cables. I know, efi.....maybe a butterfly could stick open, too? Anyway, congrats on our throttles from 1970. They are still the same.

Best and easiest way I've found to adjust them is this. First, figure out which is the "open" cable, and which is "Close"

Adjust both to where there is a ton of play. Dont be alarmed if this ends up being half a turn. No big deal.

Find your "close" cable. If your engine is running, you'll for sure notice it. Not that I recommend a running engine as you do this, but you can. Just dont goof up and knock it into gear and you'll be ok.

Work the adjuster until you can feel it JUST lifting off of its idle stop. Be patient, you'll feel and possibly hear it. The thing is , you dont want to remove all the play. Doing so will make it so the cable controls idle and it wont be steady.

You want it like you like it. A small amount of play is no big deal, but set it as you wish. You'll hear the running engine rev up if you get ti too tight.

Now, the important part. When you are happy, please turn the bars to the full right, then the full left and make sure this does nor change engine rpm. Theres nothing quite as awesome as making a full left turn only to realize doing so raised rpm's by 3000 due to cables being so tight.
 

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I just did mine. It might be just a bit too tight. Doesn't mess with idle at full lock though.

First thing I did was reduce the free play. I'm not at all concerned about the immediate awesome the throttle delivers. I just hate sloppy throttles.
 

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Guy's, if no one has fiddled with the throttle body cable settings, each of 2 cables are set up with 1 mm of free play at the lock nuts.
The result is that even if you were to wind out all the free play at the handlebar end, there is still a 2 mm rotation of the grip that you can't adjust out.
It is Factory set intentionally as fail safe measure for your safety for the ham fisted.
 

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Anyone know where the throttle cable adjustment is or have a how to?
Read your manual, it's in there. 2mm-4mm of free play for the throttle tube.




10mm-15mm for the clutch, HA! Yea right.
 

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Now, the important part. When you are happy, please turn the bars to the full right, then the full left and make sure this does nor change engine rpm. Theres nothing quite as awesome as making a full left turn only to realize doing so raised rpm's by 3000 due to cables being so tight.
Helping the meek exit corners like a hero since ages ago! Should be set this way on every learner legal bike. :D
 

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Read your manual, it's in there. 2mm-4mm of free play for the throttle tube.




10mm-15mm for the clutch, HA! Yea right.

Thanks, I didn't think manual would have that info.
Had a ton of free play, now it's perfect.
 

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Thanks, I didn't think manual would have that info.
Had a ton of free play, now it's perfect.
The owner's manual has to cover just about anything that requires easy to do adjustments to keep the bike within manufacturer's recommendations. However, for the bigger stuff like valve checks - nope!
 

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Not the same as on our modern bikes which have only 1 adjuster at the grip end.

Screw the adjuster lock nut off a bit, wind the adjuster barrel body towards the grip, which makes it looser.
Just fully close the grip by hand and keep a light pressure on the grip (like the revving it direction).

As you reverse the direction of the adjuster barrel, the slack at the grip will go and you will feel the grip moving back to zero position.
Just keep that light pressure on the grip and the adjustor barrel can be turned either way to suit the gap you want.
Main thing is that the cable is always under a light pressure so you can feel accurately what is happening.
If you just screw the adjustor body and then jiggle the grip it's too much trail and error.

The 2 adjustors at the throttle body end should not be adjusted as they give 1 mm of play in each cable as I said previously in this thread you need that for safety reasons if you set the grip to zero mm and there is some binding in the cables.

Rob.
 

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I like less free-play than what's recommended in the manual. Mine are adjusted as tight as I can get them w/o adverse reactions when turning the bars. It bothers the crap out of me to have a precision/performance machine with slop in anything, particularly the controls.
 

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I like less free-play than what's recommended in the manual. Mine are adjusted as tight as I can get them w/o adverse reactions when turning the bars. It bothers the crap out of me to have a precision/performance machine with slop in anything, particularly the controls.

Well said Joe,
Wonder who is the fictional Rider who prefers that 4 mm of slop setting, while negotiating merging traffic at a (round a bout/traffic circle/rotary) intersection?
Rob.
 

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I like less free-play than what's recommended in the manual. Mine are adjusted as tight as I can get them w/o adverse reactions when turning the bars. It bothers the crap out of me to have a precision/performance machine with slop in anything, particularly the controls.
Same here ....tight as...
 

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ever panic stop an realize your braking and still have the throttle a little open....thats why some slack is important ...close throttle helps when braking on the street......precision is nice to say sounds cool leave that to the pros,........safety is reality little slack is for saftey ....no street bike is precision
 
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