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Wanted a tank pad to help protect the tank from belt and zipper scratches, but don't really care for the majority of the standard vertical sticker type ones out there. Found this on the Japanese site "Webike". Ordered it at 3:54PM on Monday and received it today (Wednesday) at 3:15PM. Made it from Japan to Maryland in less than 48 hours. Very impressive!

It's made by a Japanese company by the name of SSK/Speedra. They appear to specialize in carbon fiber components. The quality is excellent, fitment was literally like a glove, and the installation was simple. I'll get some better pictures out in the sunlight once it quits raining. BTW, the Webike site has a ton of GSX-S parts that aren't available (or at least in plain view) here in the US. Full titanium exhaust systems, tons of adjustable rearsets, etc. All can be ordered and shipped directly to anywhere in the world.

Automotive lighting Car Hood Automotive design Grille


Here's the part number for the tank pad in case anyone is interested:

Product Font Material property Carmine Packaging and labeling
 

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Decatted it and fitted the black M4 slip on that arrived this morning (pulled the baffle of course :ROFLMAO:) She will now officially "wake the dead"

Throttle response much improved and the sound is awesome with pops and bangs on the overrun..

Very happy, but don't think my neighbours impressed with my revving her in the garage with the door open!

Mike
 

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Decatted it and fitted the black M4 slip on that arrived this morning (pulled the baffle of course :ROFLMAO:) She will now officially "wake the dead"

Throttle response much improved and the sound is awesome with pops and bangs on the overrun..

Very happy, but don't think my neighbours impressed with my revving her in the garage with the door open!

Mike
I ran the M4 slip-on before I decatted the bike and it's one of the few slip-ons that actually increases the noise level with an otherwise stock exhaust. I think it acts like a megaphone because of it's shape, therefore amplifying the sound. I bet your bike will absolutely scream with the decat/M4 combination.
 

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I ran the M4 slip-on before I decatted the bike and it's one of the few slip-ons that actually increases the noise level with an otherwise stock exhaust. I think it acts like a megaphone because of it's shape, therefore amplifying the sound.
I agree. :)
 
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2016 f
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As im installing an air cooled oil cooler, i noticed the stock lower oil gallery doesnt have a restrictor , the k series engines normally have a restricted oil gallery inbetween the oil filter return port and the upfeed into the main oil gallery, it took abit of research and phoning around, but i found the info required to make a restrictor the correct size to gain the correct amount of back pressure, which will cause the right amount of oil flow through the oil cooler, and allow some to go straight into the upfeed, (i also noticed the stock gsxs oil cooler has no bypass so if it becomes blocked by lack of maintinance, the engine will starve of oil) i then tapped a 12mm× 1.25mm pitch thread thru the upfeed side to enable a restrictor to be lodged between, so now my oil flow will mostly go through the oil cooler , definitly abit nerve wracking task, im using hand tools , plus a small mini cup wire brush on extention to buff the thread after tapping, to aid removal of any jagged edges that may try to stuff the engine bearings if left, then very careful and extensive cleaning, but this will allow for better cooling from the radiator as it also cools the stock oil cooler, and my engine oil will be better cooled, which will help and enable my big block kit to run as a stocker.
 

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Got a new rear tyre fitted. Last time I had a Metzeler M7RR which was good for about 3,000 miles, so this time I went for the newer M9RR, hopefully it will be at least as good as the 7 was.

Stuck with 50 profile as I have short legs and like being able to flat foot when sat on the bike.
 

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'16 Suzuki GSX-S1000F, '17 BMW R1200RT, '18 Honda Africa Twin AS DCT
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I performed the 15K service (minus valve check, plus new Michelin Road 5's) on my 2016 F model.
I follow the European maintenance schedule which doubles the service intervals shown on the US schedule. The only exception is that I change the oil and filter every 5K miles (I use Honda Pro GN4 dino oil in all my bikes, and have for years).

Notable findings...
Original spark plugs still looked perfect.
Original air filter was surprisingly clean and there was no oil or water in the air box.
I could only get a wrench on 6 of the 8 exhaust clamp bolts but they were tight so I didn't drop the radiator to get to the remaining two.
The Super Long Life Coolant (blue) was still in between the high/low lines (I'll change it at 30K miles).
I used a Motion Pro manometer to sync the throttle bodies. They were somewhat off. I assumed that was the case because the idle had gotten a little uneven. I honestly didn't think syncing them would make a difference above idle, but it did. At small throttle openings, there's a little less overall vibration.

About vibration: I prefer V-twins and V-fours, but have owned a half dozen or so inline 4's. This bike is one of the smoothest inline 4's I've owned and vibrates less than my other current bikes (Africa Twin and BMW R1200RT).

I bought this bike last December 31st with 1,700 miles. I absolutely love it and can't wait to rack up more miles...which will probably be today because southern AZ offers year 'round riding!
 

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I performed the 15K service (minus valve check, plus new Michelin Road 5's) on my 2016 F model.
I follow the European maintenance schedule which doubles the service intervals shown on the US schedule. The only exception is that I change the oil and filter every 5K miles (I use Honda Pro GN4 dino oil in all my bikes, and have for years).

Notable findings...
Original spark plugs still looked perfect.
Original air filter was surprisingly clean and there was no oil or water in the air box.
I could only get a wrench on 6 of the 8 exhaust clamp bolts but they were tight so I didn't drop the radiator to get to the remaining two.
The Super Long Life Coolant (blue) was still in between the high/low lines (I'll change it at 30K miles).
I used a Motion Pro manometer to sync the throttle bodies. They were somewhat off. I assumed that was the case because the idle had gotten a little uneven. I honestly didn't think syncing them would make a difference above idle, but it did. At small throttle openings, there's a little less overall vibration.

About vibration: I prefer V-twins and V-fours, but have owned a half dozen or so inline 4's. This bike is one of the smoothest inline 4's I've owned and vibrates less than my other current bikes (Africa Twin and BMW R1200RT).

I bought this bike last December 31st with 1,700 miles. I absolutely love it and can't wait to rack up more miles...which will probably be today because southern AZ offers year 'round riding!
The plugs are long life type, good for minimum of 40,000km, paper air filters are good for around 25,000km, changing oil regularly is sound practice, im sure these engines are good for 100,000km plus if maintained well, stock the valve clearences probably wont change by more than a thou or 2 over that period as the suzuki steel valves are high quality.
 

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As I (ashamedly!) broke the front mudguard (fender for our friends across the water) due to me being an idiot and rolling the bike backwards with the disc-lock attached, so I took the front wheel off the bike today to remove it.

I'm a fraidy-cat, this is the first time I've ever touched the brakes on ANY vehicle so it was a big step for me.

New mudguard arrives Friday.... but as I have taken such a huge leap (lol) in my technical progress, since the front callipers were off I've bought some EBC HH pads as you lot highly recommend them (and I did notice the front brakes need a lot of pull to get some power out of them). Watched a couple of YouTube videos and seems easy enough, no clips etc. They've only done 900 miles so a bit of a waste I guess.

Stay tuned to see if I survive! :D
 

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As I (ashamedly!) broke the front mudguard (fender for our friends across the water) due to me being an idiot and rolling the bike backwards with the disc-lock attached, so I took the front wheel off the bike today to remove it.

I'm a fraidy-cat, this is the first time I've ever touched the brakes on ANY vehicle so it was a big step for me.

New mudguard arrives Friday.... but as I have taken such a huge leap (lol) in my technical progress, since the front callipers were off I've bought some EBC HH pads as you lot highly recommend them (and I did notice the front brakes need a lot of pull to get some power out of them). Watched a couple of YouTube videos and seems easy enough, no clips etc. They've only done 900 miles so a bit of a waste I guess.

Stay tuned to see if I survive! :D
Status update: all fitted and torqued up to correct NM and no issues! Front brakes pumped up and appear to work, will road test in the morning. Only thing I can't test in the garage is the wheel speed sensor I had to remove then refit

Those brake pads were easy to change, think I over-thought it :ROFLMAO:

Status update 2: all is good! Brakes a lot better but took it very easy on them
 

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Removed the tank and fuel pump assembly. Took apart the fuel pump. Did it with a smashed finger from yesterday (don't ask). Hurts like the dickens now though.

Ordered new fuel pump and strainers from Quantum fuel systems Quantum Fuel Systems | OEM & Performance Fuel System Parts. Been experiencing issues with fueling ever since i noticed my ruptured overflow tube. Strainer seems dirty.
 

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Well done. Amazingly adaptive us humans hey!

I once reassembled the front end of a 4wd with a severed thumb. I’d severed it after already disassembling and when released from surgery had to get it all back together to drive.

You learn new ways to do tasks very quickly.


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