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Any opinions? I’m leaning towards white more I see it in garage. Also, my ac is blowing air but no cold. Either my ac took a dump or the capacitor thingy went bad. Ordered several of them going to try swap out later hopeful.

there was a yellow jacket colony under ac, I saw them going in out and not phased by the spray.Used electrical tape to hold down button on electric swatted and fresh batteries

they frying. Just put new batteries in for round 2
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2022 GSX-S1000
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94 Posts
Any opinions? I’m leaning towards white more I see it in garage. Also, my ac is blowing air but no cold. Either my ac took a dump or the capacitor thingy went bad. Ordered several of them going to try swap out later hopeful.

there was a yellow jacket colony under ac, I saw them going in out and not phased by the spray.Used electrical tape to hold down button on electric swatted and fresh batteries

they frying. Just put new batteries in for round 2 View attachment 49359
View attachment 49358
View attachment 49357

You ok bro?
 

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2018 Suzuki GSX-S1000F
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27 Posts
Finally got my bike back from the garage. 15 weeks since the accident, all because of parts shortages.

Anyway was glad to get it back so I could get stuff changed on it.

Re-fitted radiator guard
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Changed the reflectors & silver bolts to black
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NEP throttle lock
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Pyramid rear hugger
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Ermax seat cowl
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@FreePenguiny -regarding the lights touching, Take a drill bit to the holes the bolts go through and oval them out such that you can move the plate out more. Then tighten 'er back again.
 

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2018 Suzuki GSX-S1000F
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27 Posts
Today I fit an R&G slider
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I also thought about experimenting with the front. As people say it's ugly from the front I thought about tinting the sidelights. It's not perfect but good enough to get the idea.
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Let me know what you think.
 

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2018 Suzuki GSX-S1000F
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27 Posts
If you want to play with the headlights; consider... I wanted brighter headlights, both bulbs on and a better look imo. One of our forum members did the work.
I've seen the lights on the forum and been on the website. They do look class. The problem is I'm in the UK so need to factor in shipping and customs charges as well. I use my bike all the time so can't be without lights, so would need a new unit. This makes it close to $1000 before the shipping and stuff.
Also in the UK we have MOTs and other regulations we need to adhere to. I'd need to look into whether they custom lights were legal.
As good as the custom lights look, the tint only cost me £5 so can't really complain about how it turned out.
 

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2018 Suzuki GSX-S1000F
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27 Posts
I bought these SW-Motech engine guards.

They have them listed as 2021 onwards for the naked bike. I emailed them a few times back in August to ask if they would fit my 2018 faired bike, but they told me they wouldn't fit. I bought them anyway and they fit perfectly.

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Any opinions? I’m leaning towards white more I see it in garage. Also, my ac is blowing air but no cold. Either my ac took a dump or the capacitor thingy went bad. Ordered several of them going to try swap out later hopeful.

there was a yellow jacket colony under ac, I saw them going in out and not phased by the spray.Used electrical tape to hold down button on electric swatted and fresh batteries

they frying. Just put new batteries in for round 2 View attachment 49359
View attachment 49358
View attachment 49357
You need bug assault gun 🤣
 

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Installed heating elements to original grips. It took a while to install them, because I wanted everything hidden. It also needed thinking how I can pull wire to element to the throttle grip from the bar.
Clutch side is easy; just install the elemement, a small groove to ”light switch housing” for wires and pulling the wires away inside the original wiring harness.
Throttle grip had to be removed from the plastic part. Then removed element original wires (they came from wrong side/direction). Measured how long is the bar end weight (in my case the outlaw cruise control). Then drilled a hole for wires. Marked from the hole to the bar how much throttle turns.
Made groove to the bar, so the wire doesn’t touch the bar in any throttle position. Made hole to the bar so wires can access throttle/kill switch body and from there pulled the wires inside the original wiring harness.
I also smoothened the small grooves from throttle handle plastic to make the element film sit better.
Electricity I stole straight from fuse box from blinker fuse. It is fused with 10A fuse and heater has 5A fuse. I thought that 10A fuse should last because blinkers are randomly on and Katana has led blinkers. I also thought that if the fuse blows for some reason, then living without blinkers is less critical than for example headlight etc.
Attached some pictures.
I did it this way because I like original grip touch and thickness and also don’t want any additional wires sticking from the grips. Of course the control panel is visible and cable for it.
 

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Finally got around to fitting the Ohlins rear shock after the K-Tech Razor R **** itself! (was returned under warranty for a refund due to it being only a few weeks old) It never felt right from the getgo. Was pretty apprehensive knowing the Ohlins has no compression damping adjustment, just spring preload and rebound damping. So I took the plunge and thankfully had nothing to worry about. Set up the static and rider sag and job done. Added 6mm of rear preload and she’s mint. This is just in my opinion that the K Tech is still built to a lesser level of refinement to the Ohlins, appreciate the price point difference but this things on another level….. And don’t have to look at that pig ugly canister sticking out the side of the bike anymore.
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Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Hood Automotive tire
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Pulled the tank off to change the filter and plugs to find the dealer supplied the wrong filter 😩
Cleaned the existing one the best I could and put it back together, changed oil and filter and fitted a new front tyre
11166 miles so far
 

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'16 Suzuki GSX-S1000F, '17 BMW R1200RT, '18 Honda Africa Twin AS DCT
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Removed a K-Tech Razor and installed a Wilbers 641. The K-Tech is less than 2 years old and had been on the bike for about 24K miles. I'm planning to sell it for $295 plus shipping (will create a separate post).
I liked the Razor but it was not responsive enough over small bumps or sharp-edged (high-speed) bumps. With its separate High and Low-Speed "clickers" the Wilbers does a much better job in those areas. Of course, it was more expensive than the Razor.
Hot tip: when removing and installing shocks on this bike, try ladies tube socks to make the installation easier and avoid scratching the shock or reservoir.
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