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I did my 1st change at 300 miles and plan 2nd one at 1000 miles. After that every 5K with Mobil 1 15/50 and Suzuki Oil Filter
 

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I did my 1st change at 300 miles and plan 2nd one at 1000 miles. After that every 5K with Mobil 1 15/50 and Suzuki Oil Filter
I did about the same but I went with a new brand of oil I never used before called Ravenol (10W-40 motorcycle). Made in Germany but was a good deal cheaper than anything else I could find. I got about 8 liters for $50 (semi-synth). Came in interesting jugs with a built-in pop-out spout that I haven't seen before in the US.

For the filters I went with Hiflofiltro HF-138. Seems like a good quality filter and the gasket came pre-lubed.


Currently at about 1300 miles.
 

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I'm not far from being convinced to switch to synthetic and go a little longer between changes (especially with the F - I'm lazy {and really don't want to cycle plastic clips all that much} and leave the fairings on and end up getting a bunch of oil on the exhaust).
Could you clarify your statement about plastic clips? Are some of the fairing clips easy to break when changing the oil? If parts can be broken, I'm sure I'll find a way so I might want to have some on hand. Not looking forward to dealing with the fairings when I do my first change in a couple weeks. (Normally use Mobil 1 4T.)

I haven't studied it, but could you fashion some sort of funnel (like cutting up a 2-liter soda bottle) or something like in this link to divert the oil off the headers?

New Pig TLS706 Nitrile Form-A-Funnel Flexible Draining Tool, 4.75 x 9-Inches | eBay
 
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Could you clarify your statement about plastic clips? Are some of the fairing clips easy to break when changing the oil? If parts can be broken, I'm sure I'll find a way so I might want to have some on hand. Not looking forward to dealing with the fairings when I do my first change in a couple weeks. (Normally use Mobil 1 4T.)

I haven't studied it, but could you fashion some sort of funnel (like cutting up a 2-liter soda bottle) or something like in this link to divert the oil off the headers?

New Pig TLS706 Nitrile Form-A-Funnel Flexible Draining Tool, 4.75 x 9-Inches | eBay
As mentioned in my fairing removal post that you replied to....
The clips are very tolerant to breakage. Have a look there are two types, the smaller diameter pin type just needs something sharp to depress the centre (I use a pointed pick) then simply remove with fingers. The other style you need a flat screwdriver - wedge it underneath the head through the gap/slot and lever up. Do it gently but purposely and it will pop up the head, again ready for removal with fingers. As I said before using Silicone spray helps even with these fasteners
Hope this helps you..
Regards
Jeffro;)
 

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So far (two oil changes), I've just undone the center connecting plastic on the F. Still kind of a pain in the arse and a small flat blade screwdriver on the inner left side panel where it's attached comes in very handy. With that panel unconnected, it allows me to get my hand in and wrangle out the filter. The Original filter was a complete PITA to get off, so now, I only use the filters with the 17mm cap. I use HiFlo Filtro 138RC specifically, don't do K&N. Long story but they used to be made by HiFlo and aren't anymore and there have been lot's of failures. Just google "K&N motorcycle oil filter failures". A socket wrench with a short extension slips right between the headers. I always end up coating the headers in oil when I remove the filter, but I don't find that to be a problem. Some Viva paper towels cleans it up nicely, and I've never even noticed any smoke or smell.
 

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So far (two oil changes), I've just undone the center connecting plastic on the F. Still kind of a pain in the arse and a small flat blade screwdriver on the inner left side panel where it's attached comes in very handy. With that panel unconnected, it allows me to get my hand in and wrangle out the filter. The Original filter was a complete PITA to get off, so now, I only use the filters with the 17mm cap. I use HiFlo Filtro 138RC specifically, don't do K&N. Long story but they used to be made by HiFlo and aren't anymore and there have been lot's of failures. Just google "K&N motorcycle oil filter failures". A socket wrench with a short extension slips right between the headers. I always end up coating the headers in oil when I remove the filter, but I don't find that to be a problem. Some Viva paper towels cleans it up nicely, and I've never even noticed any smoke or smell.

First oil change on the F I removed the whole thing. This spring I will go your way and try with only removing the center plastic base. I also use Semi Motul 5100 but I think any motorcycle oil will do the trick if it is changed regularly. It's crazy what we can believe. Stop reading everything that is said on the Internet about oil and go riding :D
 

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I use Motul 7100 and a K&N filter. I will order the Hi-flo next as they are cheaper. I thought K&N and Hi-flow was the same. I saw an oil filter test where they cut a bunch of filters open. Hi-flow and K&N were identical except for the label. Don't know the age of the vid though.

I agree the stock filter was a PITA. Could not find an oil wrench to fit it. Finally just stabbed it with a screwdriver and removed it old school :D
 

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I use Motul 7100 and a K&N filter. I will order the Hi-flo next as they are cheaper. I thought K&N and Hi-flow was the same. I saw an oil filter test where they cut a bunch of filters open. Hi-flow and K&N were identical except for the label. Don't know the age of the vid though.

I agree the stock filter was a PITA. Could not find an oil wrench to fit it. Finally just stabbed it with a screwdriver and removed it old school :D
K&N used to be made by HiFlo. Not anymore. The K&N has since then allegedly had a higher failure rate and even a recall.
 

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Well, crap. Recently I bought a whole box of K&N. Thanks for that recall info; going to check mine when I get home.

Just looked at that recall and it seems to only be for #204 filters and ours are 138, so hopefully they aren't affected? I guess different filters could be made in different factories? Guilt by association? So many questions...
 

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10 40 castrol reg motorcycle oil....change oil every 3500 and filter every other change....motor will last as long as any other motor on the forum.....all oils are refined so well now they can all be called syn......5 bucks a quart.....and its MA2 for the cat
 

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My local dealer quoted me at $375 for my 600mi service. I can afford it, but that seems way too expensive. What do i need to do besides change the oil? I was going to put 4qts of Ecstar full synth in and change the oil filter, bit what else?
 

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Have you looked at the back of your owners manual? It's all spelled out right there in the chart.
 
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Sorry but changing your oil without changing the filter is like taking a dump and not wiping your back side.
 

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Sorry but changing your oil without changing the filter is like taking a dump and not wiping your back side.
its more like using the same piece of toilet paper the next day....lots of guys find the plastic a pain in the ass ....well suzuki says oil filter 8000 miles ....only play with your plastics once a year
 

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You’re trying to get me to read books now Jason? C’mon
Well, you can read what the manufacturer says to do, which is what the dealer is "Supposed" to do, or you can do what some guy on the internet tells you to do. Your call.

I only know that info is back there because I'm preparing to do it myself sometime over the next two weekends. Weather is finally getting nice and our hectic February and March are ending so I have time for wrenching and riding.
 

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engines and oils - ,as an ex m/cycle mech, ive seen the results of lack of oil changes, and using the wrong grades, and even using cheap ill suited oils.
but if its the correct grade, changed regularly i.e. within specified kms and to a lesser extent time periods, all will be well with at least the lubrication side of your engine, their is no actual point in putting high grade synthetic oil and then changing it within a couple of thousand km's , unless your drag racing, or circuit racing type use, for general principle i go by , if its getting a hard time by owner- synthetic at specified intervals, if its ordinary road use with extended non-running times -mineral oils changed at time periods specified. , i always change filter with oil as it will contaminate your fresh oil, i usually also spend abit of time leaning bike from side to side to get rid of as much of the old oil as is physically possible to minimise oil contamination, as its not your oil that actually wears out , its the additives that are there to fight - contamination
 

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I like the Motul 7100 so much i have started lubing my guns with it. If it can withstand up to 12K RPM's and high heat and has corrosion preventives, it should make a fine firearms lubricant. I like that it doesn't have that petroleum smell.

I think half if not all of the wonder lubes for firearms are motor or gear oils repackaged into small bottles and marked up about 500-600%

I noticed smoother shifting after putting 7100 in my bike.
 

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its more like using the same piece of toilet paper the next day....lots of guys find the plastic a pain in the ass ....well suzuki says oil filter 8000 miles ..
I know, and they're probably right. But They also say spark plugs every 7500 which is pure lunacy.
 
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