Joined
·
2,312 Posts
ya its a pure money maker.....wont think of plugs till after 25000 miles or longer if still running well
What engine oil.
81 - 100 of 106 Posts
Joined
·
671 Posts
Plugs are 30 some dollars, it's an hour to change and a good reason to get the tank up and plastics off so you can do a reasonable inspection of your bike.
Great thread with lots of oil talk , but one question unanswered for me , I hope or presume a motor that’s been run in properly doesn’t burn any oil or require much topping up between oil changes .
however if changed to to a fully synthetic oil after running in on a semi syn or mineral oil does the motor then burn any oil . Dealer told me they used Motul 5100 at ist service ,
I’ve got about 12l of fully syn oil in stock from the ktm days and would like to use that after a few thousand miles on the Motul
however if changed to to a fully synthetic oil after running in on a semi syn or mineral oil does the motor then burn any oil . Dealer told me they used Motul 5100 at ist service ,
I’ve got about 12l of fully syn oil in stock from the ktm days and would like to use that after a few thousand miles on the Motul
Joined
·
696 Posts
I was running Motul full synthetic in my bike, now have full synthetic Rotella in her. No leaks.
Don't worry so much. You bought a Suzuki, not a Royal-Enfield
Don't worry so much. You bought a Suzuki, not a Royal-Enfield
Joined
·
696 Posts
Agree 100%.
I changed my plugs at 5500 miles because i thought i had a slight miss at low RPM (I didn't). The stock plugs were fine, could have went another 10K, but plugs are relatively cheap and I don't like reusing plugs once the crush washer has been crushed. Its interesting that car makers who use iridium plugs suggest replacing at 50K or more. I know our bikes have higher compression and performance but they also appear to be quite under stressed compared to car engines. The power to weight ratio of our bike, less rider, is just over 3lbs per HP. Our bikes put down about 140hp. My car puts down 300hp to the rear tires but weighs NINE times more than the bike. I think the stock plugs can go at least 25K but for $30-40 why wait? Even though plugs last super long, i still think they should be inspected every 10-15K to check the health of the engine.
Yes, this is what I have heard about this oil Motul 7100. It' is really expensive but the benefits are noticed. Of course there is always people that do not notice night from day.
Joined
·
514 Posts
Just swapped the oil and filter after the winter break. I put Castrol Power 1 in this time, first time I've used this so will see how it performs.
I did the first 600 miles service and put in the Castrol Actevo 10-40w 4T. I noticed the gear shifting is more easy and soft now. I got also the Castrol Power 1 10-40w 4T, as soon as I'm done with the break in period I'll swap it to this Power 1.
Please tell us how your bike likes this oil, what are your findings. Thanks.
From Castrol's site. New Castrol POWER1 Racing 4T 10W-50 completed a 5.2km test cycle 2.2 seconds quicker than a competitor 10W-40, in a 3-stage acceleration test conducted by Castrol, using a 4-cylinder supersport engine.
I guess that makes it a "must have" then.
Got 4L for £31.95 with free delivery from opieoils via Ebay.
I guess that makes it a "must have" then.
Got 4L for £31.95 with free delivery from opieoils via Ebay.
Joined
·
123 Posts
Now we’ve started eh now we’ve started😏👍From Castrol's site. New Castrol POWER1 Racing 4T 10W-50 completed a 5.2km test cycle 2.2 seconds quicker than a competitor 10W-40, in a 3-stage acceleration test conducted by Castrol, using a 4-cylinder supersport engine.
I guess that makes it a "must have" then.
Got 4L for £31.95 with free delivery from opieoils via Ebay.
Joined
·
401 Posts
Well its official. I am going to quit using Motul.
I put some Motul 300V that I had laying around in my lawn mower in 2013 at its first and only oil change and the motor just died last week. I think it has a stuck valve. Had to go out and buy another lawnmower.
Maybe I should have changed it again ...... but gees.
I put some Motul 300V that I had laying around in my lawn mower in 2013 at its first and only oil change and the motor just died last week. I think it has a stuck valve. Had to go out and buy another lawnmower.
Maybe I should have changed it again ...... but gees.
Joined
·
123 Posts
Sorry to hear it, but I'm pretty certain that 300V is NOT the type of oil you want to use in a lawnmower. It's a racing formulation with fewer detergents than say, Motul 7100.
300v is great for high pressure applications like built engines that undergo frequent oil changes, but I'd stick to 5100 for a lawnmower. Even 7100 would be overkill.
I get that you were just using what was laying around, but that may be the problem. Don't think you can blame Motul here.
Sent from my OnePlus 7T using Tapatalk
Joined
·
123 Posts
Just wanted to share that I decided to give Amsoil Metric 10w40 a try for the first time last week. A lot of people rave about the stuff, so I wanted to see what all the hype was about despite the exorbitant cost.
Long story short - I'm very impressed.
I was switching over from Motul 5100 which is of course a very good oil, but it never performed as well as the Suzuki dino oil that the shop used on my very first service. With the Motul I always noticed a rough idle, even at operating temp. I could actually see the tach hunt between 1000-1200rpm constantly. I'm not sure how an engine oil could influence this, but it did.
With the Amsoil, that hunting is gone. The tach now sits dead steady at 1000rpm at idle and the engine just purrs. Shifts are also smoother than with the Motul 5100, but that makes sense going from a semi- to a full synthetic. At higher revs, the engine also sounds smoother/quieter. I don't notice any change in operating temperature as yet.
I waited a few days and several rides before posting these observations to ensure that I was not going into fanboy mode. I will say that the smooth idle alone was worth the price of admission. The bike feels happier in all scenarios.
I'm annoyed because now I'm a convert... and this sh*t costs a pretty penny.
![46197]()
Long story short - I'm very impressed.
I was switching over from Motul 5100 which is of course a very good oil, but it never performed as well as the Suzuki dino oil that the shop used on my very first service. With the Motul I always noticed a rough idle, even at operating temp. I could actually see the tach hunt between 1000-1200rpm constantly. I'm not sure how an engine oil could influence this, but it did.
With the Amsoil, that hunting is gone. The tach now sits dead steady at 1000rpm at idle and the engine just purrs. Shifts are also smoother than with the Motul 5100, but that makes sense going from a semi- to a full synthetic. At higher revs, the engine also sounds smoother/quieter. I don't notice any change in operating temperature as yet.
I waited a few days and several rides before posting these observations to ensure that I was not going into fanboy mode. I will say that the smooth idle alone was worth the price of admission. The bike feels happier in all scenarios.
I'm annoyed because now I'm a convert... and this sh*t costs a pretty penny.
Joined
·
2,596 Posts
I've been using it too, and it just works great. The nice thing is that it doesn't seem to degrade over time. I've also used Motul 7100 which I have no complaints about. But... I used the Motul 300V and the shift from neutral to first started feeling a little clunkier over a few months.
Joined
·
155 Posts
oil changed how the bike idles??Just wanted to share that I decided to give Amsoil Metric 10w40 a try for the first time last week. A lot of people rave about the stuff, so I wanted to see what all the hype was about despite the exorbitant cost.
Long story short - I'm very impressed.
I was switching over from Motul 5100 which is of course a very good oil, but it never performed as well as the Suzuki dino oil that the shop used on my very first service. With the Motul I always noticed a rough idle, even at operating temp. I could actually see the tach hunt between 1000-1200rpm constantly. I'm not sure how an engine oil could influence this, but it did.
With the Amsoil, that hunting is gone. The tach now sits dead steady at 1000rpm at idle and the engine just purrs. Shifts are also smoother than with the Motul 5100, but that makes sense going from a semi- to a full synthetic. At higher revs, the engine also sounds smoother/quieter. I don't notice any change in operating temperature as yet.
I waited a few days and several rides before posting these observations to ensure that I was not going into fanboy mode. I will say that the smooth idle alone was worth the price of admission. The bike feels happier in all scenarios.
I'm annoyed because now I'm a convert... and this sh*t costs a pretty penny.
View attachment 46197
Joined
·
123 Posts
Mine looks more like cowboy hat. Lol. And yes, it idles much smoother.
Sent from my OnePlus 7T using Tapatalk
Joined
·
2,312 Posts
My dealer uses Yamaha 10/40 for reg oil change. I’ve used reg oil and syn oils. I’ll go back and forth. Depending on if I change or dealer. I can’t tell the difference. Bike always runs shifts smooth
81 - 100 of 106 Posts
