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I changed mine at the 15K major service.
They were running fine and didn't show any wear but I thought I'd better, just in case;)
 

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Great thread with lots of oil talk , but one question unanswered for me , I hope or presume a motor that’s been run in properly doesn’t burn any oil or require much topping up between oil changes .
however if changed to to a fully synthetic oil after running in on a semi syn or mineral oil does the motor then burn any oil . Dealer told me they used Motul 5100 at ist service ,
I’ve got about 12l of fully syn oil in stock from the ktm days and would like to use that after a few thousand miles on the Motul
 

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I was running Motul full synthetic in my bike, now have full synthetic Rotella in her. No leaks.

Don't worry so much. You bought a Suzuki, not a Royal-Enfield ;)
 

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Plugs are 30 some dollars, it's an hour to change and a good reason to get the tank up and plastics off so you can do a reasonable inspection of your bike.
Agree 100%.

I changed my plugs at 5500 miles because i thought i had a slight miss at low RPM (I didn't). The stock plugs were fine, could have went another 10K, but plugs are relatively cheap and I don't like reusing plugs once the crush washer has been crushed. Its interesting that car makers who use iridium plugs suggest replacing at 50K or more. I know our bikes have higher compression and performance but they also appear to be quite under stressed compared to car engines. The power to weight ratio of our bike, less rider, is just over 3lbs per HP. Our bikes put down about 140hp. My car puts down 300hp to the rear tires but weighs NINE times more than the bike. I think the stock plugs can go at least 25K but for $30-40 why wait? Even though plugs last super long, i still think they should be inspected every 10-15K to check the health of the engine.
 

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I like the Motul 7100 so much i have started lubing my guns with it. If it can withstand up to 12K RPM's and high heat and has corrosion preventives, it should make a fine firearms lubricant. I like that it doesn't have that petroleum smell.

I think half if not all of the wonder lubes for firearms are motor or gear oils repackaged into small bottles and marked up about 500-600%

I noticed smoother shifting after putting 7100 in my bike.
Yes, this is what I have heard about this oil Motul 7100. It' is really expensive but the benefits are noticed. Of course there is always people that do not notice night from day.
 

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Just swapped the oil and filter after the winter break. I put Castrol Power 1 in this time, first time I've used this so will see how it performs.
I did the first 600 miles service and put in the Castrol Actevo 10-40w 4T. I noticed the gear shifting is more easy and soft now. I got also the Castrol Power 1 10-40w 4T, as soon as I'm done with the break in period I'll swap it to this Power 1.
Please tell us how your bike likes this oil, what are your findings. Thanks.
 

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From Castrol's site. New Castrol POWER1 Racing 4T 10W-50 completed a 5.2km test cycle 2.2 seconds quicker than a competitor 10W-40, in a 3-stage acceleration test conducted by Castrol, using a 4-cylinder supersport engine.
I guess that makes it a "must have" then.:)
Got 4L for £31.95 with free delivery from opieoils via Ebay.
 

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From Castrol's site. New Castrol POWER1 Racing 4T 10W-50 completed a 5.2km test cycle 2.2 seconds quicker than a competitor 10W-40, in a 3-stage acceleration test conducted by Castrol, using a 4-cylinder supersport engine.
I guess that makes it a "must have" then.:)
Got 4L for £31.95 with free delivery from opieoils via Ebay.
Now we’ve started eh now we’ve started😏👍
 

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Well its official. I am going to quit using Motul.

I put some Motul 300V that I had laying around in my lawn mower in 2013 at its first and only oil change and the motor just died last week. I think it has a stuck valve. Had to go out and buy another lawnmower.
Maybe I should have changed it again ...... but gees.
 

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Well its official. I am going to quit using Motul.

I put some Motul 300V that I had laying around in my lawn mower in 2013 at its first and only oil change and the motor just died last week. I think it has a stuck valve. Had to go out and buy another lawnmower.
Maybe I should have changed it again ...... but gees.
Sorry to hear it, but I'm pretty certain that 300V is NOT the type of oil you want to use in a lawnmower. It's a racing formulation with fewer detergents than say, Motul 7100.

300v is great for high pressure applications like built engines that undergo frequent oil changes, but I'd stick to 5100 for a lawnmower. Even 7100 would be overkill.

I get that you were just using what was laying around, but that may be the problem. Don't think you can blame Motul here.

Sent from my OnePlus 7T using Tapatalk
 
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