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It also says 14.5 ft-lbs, which is not all that tight, very frustrating ambiguity. I can't even go with the tried and true I've used on all vehicles, half turn past hand tight, because it's in such a terrible place. :|
what part no. or substitute for our oil filter
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A good trick I've used over the years is to remove the new O ring from the filter and lightly oil the recess and O ring. You want the O ring to slide freely in the recess.
Whenever I refit oil filters whether it be a car or bike I screw it on until the O ring catches and just do it up hand tight. You really don't need to apply too much pressure.
Whenever I refit oil filters whether it be a car or bike I screw it on until the O ring catches and just do it up hand tight. You really don't need to apply too much pressure.
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Personally I'd rather have it too tight than too loose.
What's worse, having slightly more difficulty removing it, or having it come loose and squirt oil all over the place while you're riding?
What's worse, having slightly more difficulty removing it, or having it come loose and squirt oil all over the place while you're riding?
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you don't want to over-tighten. never use a wrench for tightening the filter. Just make it hand tight. It will not leak. Put a light coat of oil on the o-ring before installing.
I'll never use a K&N oil filter again. I put one on my girlfriends bike 2 years ago. It went something like 3k miles before it started leaking at the hex and making the rear tire nice and shiny. I've heard of several others with the same problem, so not sure if it was a batch issue or something else. K&N would send a new filter, but I'm sure if her bike went down because of it, they wouldn't do anything about that. Just not worth it for me to run them again.
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Why don't I want to overtighten? What harm will it do other than making it slightly harder to take off?
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Wreck the threads that the filter grabs on to which are part of a longer, threaded (on both ends) rod/bolt that hold the oil cooler in place.
I realize this reply is 5 months late, but it's better than not having an answer.
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Also could squash the oring out of shape which would make it leak.
Im about to do my service for the first time this week. the filter look like a bit of a pain to get to.
Both my Bandit 1200 and GSX call for 2 turns from light contact,, That is way more than hand tight and can only be done with a wrench.
If you look at the filter o-ring, it is not flat like on most car filter but round and of a higher durometer.
Is 2 turns necessary ??? Let's say that hand tight is too lose for this filter design
If you look at the filter o-ring, it is not flat like on most car filter but round and of a higher durometer.
Is 2 turns necessary ??? Let's say that hand tight is too lose for this filter design
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2,219 Posts
well i would say if someone has a grip like a girl,,,then there better off using a tool to tighten.......once tightened by hand and motor heats up it wont come off by hand.........
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I always find the factory filters on my bikes and cars are installed too tight from the factory. Even using a filter Socket and ratchet I find myself saying why the heck is this on so tight.
I run a coat of oil on the new filter O ring/gasket, spin it up flush, tighten it by hand a little snug, then 1/4 turn with a 3/8 ratchet and filter socket. This leaves it a little too snug to remove by hand, but 1/4 turn with a wrench/socket and it comes the rest of the way easily by hand. I would bet you guys are like myself and have developed your own methods over the years. Bottom line, strive for not too loose so it won't leak, not too tight so its a bear to remove.
I run a coat of oil on the new filter O ring/gasket, spin it up flush, tighten it by hand a little snug, then 1/4 turn with a 3/8 ratchet and filter socket. This leaves it a little too snug to remove by hand, but 1/4 turn with a wrench/socket and it comes the rest of the way easily by hand. I would bet you guys are like myself and have developed your own methods over the years. Bottom line, strive for not too loose so it won't leak, not too tight so its a bear to remove.
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Well they should since that is the K&N filter. K&N just buys them from HiFlo and re-labels them.![]()
they make it with the nut on the end as well...so win, win.
Just a heads up, the K&N KN-138 filter seems to be a stupidly cheap $1.58 on amazon right now. It's an add-on item so if you add it to a $25 order the shipping is free. Maybe it's a typo.
https://www.amazon.com/KN-138-Power...000E2CVDI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/KN-138-Power...000E2CVDI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
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712 Posts
Watched a Brock Davidson video tuning the GSXR1000. He says the same.
Regarding filter change, just did mine. Did not go as tight as Suzuki says to go 2 full turns. It was a PITA getting the factory off doing my first service last night. So far, I have like my Channellock 209 9-Inch Oil Filter & PVC Pliers. Taking the chin fairing off with 4 bolts allows access using the Channelock pliers. Not too bad.
I use the factory filter and a wrench like this:
Tons easier to get off and on!! I did not have to remove anything to change my oil 1st change. (But everyone is right, why on earth do they have to put it on so dang TIGHT!! It took 2 turns to brake it loose)
Tons easier to get off and on!! I did not have to remove anything to change my oil 1st change. (But everyone is right, why on earth do they have to put it on so dang TIGHT!! It took 2 turns to brake it loose)
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