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Discussion Starter #1
Considering a change from stock pleated paper to a high performance unit .

I know that K&N sell the SU-9915 for the GSXS1000, what else is available?

Are there any performance comparisons between the different filter types used, not expecting any appreciable performance gain by an air filter swap, but would like to know comparable pressure drops etc to put my mind at rest that I am paying good money for a performance product and mot just a fashion trend!.
 

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after many years of watching dyno tuning on harleys with air filter off then on...and metric bikes will be the same..there,s no real gain with filter change...with filter off then on maybe half hp.... ya i know the product says its so....but what i seen i say no gain
 

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Have to agree. Unless your full on racing where you may get a better air flow (at the cost of better filtration) from racing part number filters, don't bother. You may if your lucky get a hp or two. Waste of time on these bikes leave it OEM in my opinion or for cost effectiveness maybe the washable K&N style may be an option.
Jeffro
 

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Considering a change from stock pleated paper to a high performance unit .

I know that K&N sell the SU-9915 for the GSXS1000, what else is available?

Are there any performance comparisons between the different filter types used, not expecting any appreciable performance gain by an air filter swap, but would like to know comparable pressure drops etc to put my mind at rest that I am paying good money for a performance product and mot just a fashion trend!.
I can tell you this... I had a full M4 exhaust fitted to my bike then took it to the dyno. First couple pulls with just the exhaust was around 140hp. The first change we made was installing the BMC race filter and then made a pull. 147hp! There was a 7hp increase with just the filter but mind you the bike was also getting to proper temp at this point and I'm sure its more like a 3-4 hp difference realistically. My tuner highly recommends the BMC over K & N. He has hundreds of pulls on his dyno and says the BMC out performs the K&N every time! Once my bike had the PCV fitted the HP was almost 155. But there was a significant jump with just the BMC! I highly recommend but if you are only changing the filter you should be ok without messing with the AFR, however if you are changing cat and filter a tune is highly recommended!

Let us know what you end up with.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I do about 12000 miles a year and would use a standart size filter, found the BMC part number FM557/04 just need to find a uk dealer.

Are there any brands other than BMC or K&N?
 

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Want hp?

Intake:
Remove restrictor plate inside air box
Cup flaps covering intake holes outside frame
BMC street filter. Race doesn’t filter as well for road conditions and rain.

Exhaust. Pretty much anything that decats.

All of this will make your bike run worse if you don’t tune the AFR. I don’t like a static tune. I prefer something dynamic like dunojet auto tune. It’ll know the difference between riding in hot 9000 feet vs cold sea level. Bike will always run optimally.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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main benefit of the an aftermarket filter is they can be cleaned and reused. Seriously doubt you will notice any performance gain. As an fyi just discovered our bikes use the same OEM air filter as the 2012-2016 GIXXR 1000
Your very right about your comments. Thanks for the info too
Jeffro
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Want hp?
Intake:
Remove restrictor plate inside air box
Cup flaps covering intake holes outside frame
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the info guys, pressed the button on a K&N filter SU-9915 which I will install at the next service.

what do you mean by restrictor plate and flaps? Any pictures to help me out.

Agree with al the other comments, a filter on its own will make negligible difference to HP unless you are really caning it. I like the fact that they offer improved filtration performance and can be cleaned/reused.

With K&N, decat, no centre box and standard muffler (perhaps a yoshi if funds allow) the bike should breath better allowing a dyno woolwich ECU flash to smooth AFR and any other glitches to take my Gixxus from great to Super. That is what the S is for surely?
 
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Which Air filter & why.

what do you mean by restrictor plate and flaps? Any pictures to help me out.


the restrictor plate: youll have to open up the air box, inside theres a plate with a few screws blocking airflow. take it out.



frame flaps: find the air intake holes on the shoulders of the frame. There are plastic flaps covering the intake so air doesnt go straight in and instead is buffeted behind. used a dremel to make the opening clear on. I ride in clean conditions so its fine and the air filter is awesome so its fine, just like every superbike with a ram air intake



I felt an instant difference and can clearly hear it sucking air in!

it’s on the inside of this piece in the fender
 

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This is just what I was looking for. My bike is stock and I can clearly hear the difference between the intake sound on my GSXR 750 and this 1000. There is something about the sound of a motor that just urges you to open it up more. The 750 has a quiet yosh can on it but the overall sound is much more engaging. Then there is the faultless fuel injection map. My goal is to get the 1000 to run a smooth as the 750. The exhaust can I am still thinking over but the intake is definitely changing immediately.

Got to love the forums. They make owning a bike so much more fun.
 

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Well that was fun. Only lost one connector while digging for the air filter. Forgot where two bolt go, re-adjusted the TPS to -C00 rather than upper position. Initially I cannot hear any difference in the intake sound but maybe when I am riding it.
 

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... Initially I cannot hear any difference in the intake sound but maybe when I am riding it.
Old thread revival, but FWIW I did not notice any difference either, when I removed the plate inside the airbox.
Also FWIW, Brock Davidson tested a sprint filter in a GSXR1000 after exhaust work.
Video here.
 

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I had switched over to Sprint a few years ago. I like the fact that they are non-oiled you don't have to worry about applying too much or too little oil and you don't need to wash them out, just blow it out with some air.
 
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My experience with aftermarket air filters tells me that a fuel adjustment/retune will be required when using a k+n or similar. Fitted a K+N to a Bandit 1200 (carb model) without rejetting the mixture, while it definitely pulled harder at the top end there was a hole/flatspot at 4-5000rpm where the midrange was most effective. Removed it as it killed the riding enjoyment of instant midrange torque. But with fuel injection its also easier to tweak the mixture to your liking with the right equipment of course, no wrestling a bank of carburretors in and out.
 

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My experience with aftermarket air filters tells me that a fuel adjustment/retune will be required when using a k+n or similar. Fitted a K+N to a Bandit 1200 (carb model) without rejetting the mixture, while it definitely pulled harder at the top end there was a hole/flatspot at 4-5000rpm where the midrange was most effective. Removed it as it killed the riding enjoyment of instant midrange torque. But with fuel injection its also easier to tweak the mixture to your liking with the right equipment of course, no wrestling a bank of carburretors in and out.
Exact same experience. Put the stock filter back in my old Bandit as well.
 
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