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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Finally got around to buying a GSX-S1000 and absolutely love it. I have already started looking at a few mods however and wanted a bit of feedback. One of the first things I'm looking at is a better rear shock. I've read all the info here and think I'm going with a Nitron but I can't decide on the model. Sounds like most have gone with the R1 but I'm wondering if it's worth going the R2 or R3? The R2 adds independent compression & rebound settings while the R3 adds high and low compression settings. It's about an extra $950 AUD going from the R1 to the R3 with optional preload adjuster.

I don't mind spending a bit of extra coin if there's a benefit from it but I'm no professional racer either. Nor do I know a great deal about suspension setups so would likely take it in to get this done and then leave it alone (or start learning more). Also, is the optional hydraulic preload adjuster worth while getting? This will be used as my daily ride around town, longer highway trips, few track days, bit of everything really. I don't take pillions very often but may load it up with luggage. Look forward to your thoughts! Cheers.
 

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The upgraded models offer more adjustability. Having that adjustability doesn't directly mean it offers more performance, it means that you can fine tune things to get the ride just how you like it. I find most people are scared to touch the suspension settings, so all that adjustability goes to waste. It also gives you the ability to make changes for different situations (different roads, carrying a passenger, etc.). If you don't know what these adjusters do, are you willing to learn and try different settings?

The simplest way to see if it's worth it, will you touch the adjusters? If not, get the base model and have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The upgraded models offer more adjustability. Having that adjustability doesn't directly mean it offers more performance, it means that you can fine tune things to get the ride just how you like it. I find most people are scared to touch the suspension settings, so all that adjustability goes to waste. It also gives you the ability to make changes for different situations (different roads, carrying a passenger, etc.). If you don't know what these adjusters do, are you willing to learn and try different settings?

The simplest way to see if it's worth it, will you touch the adjusters? If not, get the base model and have fun.
Thanks Fat Pat. I would definitely be in the too scared to touch it category at the moment. I would like to say I'd learn more and play around but realistically it probably wouldn't happen. That being said, I moreso thought I'd take it to someone to setup, or have it tuned in on track days so I assume they would get more out of the extra adjustability. Or would the pros be able to setup the bike pretty well even on the base model?
 

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Thanks Fat Pat. I would definitely be in the too scared to touch it category at the moment. I would like to say I'd learn more and play around but realistically it probably wouldn't happen. That being said, I moreso thought I'd take it to someone to setup, or have it tuned in on track days so I assume they would get more out of the extra adjustability. Or would the pros be able to setup the bike pretty well even on the base model?
The extra high and low speed compression adjustability is suited to the track.
I have it on mine and have never touched it as i only do road riding (twisties and commuting).
Setting up suspension isn't difficult. Many people treat it like it's a secret cult of pogo wizards that you're born into.
Watch a youtube video. Tools required are a flat blade screwdriver, rear shock spanner, measuring tape (another person to read the tape too).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The extra high and low speed compression adjustability is suited to the track.
I have it on mine and have never touched it as i only do road riding (twisties and commuting).
Setting up suspension isn't difficult. Many people treat it like it's a secret cult of pogo wizards that you're born into.
Watch a youtube video. Tools required are a flat blade screwdriver, rear shock spanner, measuring tape (another person to read the tape too).
Cheers mate. What about the independent compression & rebound settings like on the R2 as compared to the single setting on the R1?
 

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Cheers mate. What about the independent compression & rebound settings like on the R2 as compared to the single setting on the R1?
Honestly, the suspension manufacturers really do a great job in setting the spring rate and damping for your weight and riding style.
I don't think you'd be unhappy with the base model.
Again, if you're a tinkerer and plan on heading to a track day here and there then I'd highly recommend the top spec model.
I spent $1300 and could have gotten away with a $800 and been just as happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Honestly, the suspension manufacturers really do a great job in setting the spring rate and damping for your weight and riding style.
I don't think you'd be unhappy with the base model.
Again, if you're a tinkerer and plan on heading to a track day here and there then I'd highly recommend the top spec model.
I spent $1300 and could have gotten away with a $800 and been just as happy.
Ok sweet. That's great to hear. One last question regarding any model really - If I order a shock for a set weight/riding style and then either lose or put on any significant weight, would the shock need replacing? Or just adjusting?
 

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Large weight changes will likely require the spring to be replaced, not the shock itself. That is true across all models. For the most part, the shock construction and spring determine how the bike rides. The adjuster knobs give you the ability to make small changes to dial in the shock behavior, but they are not huge swings. To understand what the adjusters do, I recommend people use the full range of the adjuster and test ride around at 80% to feel what the changes do. Take rebound adjustability for example, start with the minimum and go for a ride at 80%. Turn it up a few clicks and do the same ride. Do that until you reach the maximum setting. Then do it again for compression. I know most people don't touch their suspension for fear of messing up the bike. You can always go back. Just take notes, remember what you started with, and adjust one thing at a time. Even a completely maxed out adjuster (or minimized out adjuster) will have a ride-able bike. As long as you're not jumping on the bike and trying to ride at the limit. One click too many on the rebound isn't going to put you on the floor.

If you're doing track days, you definitely want the adjustability. From track to track, or even different days, you might want to make some changes. Also, a suspension set up for the track will not be much fun on the road, so you'll have to make changes for that as well. All that said, my opinion... If you're only street riding, you'll be happy with the base model.
 

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I have a Nitron R1 setup for 75 - 80kg that I never got around to selling as I bought an R3 second hand if you're interested.
 

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R2 is a good choice.
It will allow you adjustability for track road and touring.
One of the things not mentioned before is it will also let you adjust for when you’ve put a few miles on it and it could really do with a service. You can adjust for the oil as it goes off and save a bit in servicing.
I’m such a cheepskate


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Discussion Starter #13
Got the R2 fitted yesterday and took it for it's first run today. I haven't checked sag yet but I'm still extremely happy with it. I'll probably soften it up just a touch more for the road use though (I did specify road/track use when I ordered it so it has come exactly as expected).
 
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