That does not matter, it was way down the list and i was interested what others had to say, do not forget newbies are coming all the time with new knowledge, or at least bump the other thread with your thoughts.

 

O.K., it was regarding adjusting the Primary TPS to achieve a much better on/off throttle as the fuel shot off would be stopped from happening by telling the ECU that the primary throttle is still open. Found it on the GSR forum. Do a web search on "Tamed The Beast". also just noticed that a service bulletin has been released regarding replacement ECU by suzuki so check with your dealers for affected models, it is on this site under "Suzuki Is Listening" on page 15......Service Bulletin Issue No. M-T-0012.........I'm going to check with my dealer on Monday!!!!

 

Think this makes a lot of sense when you start to think how it all works, going to do a lot more investigating on this as well as check up about the ECU replacement.

 

Ahhh, the good old herky jerky is gone with repeatable resulsts - Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com

and

The beast has been tamed..... (Throttle Snatch thread)

CHEERS!!!!!

 

The beast has been tamed..... (Throttle Snatch thread)

and

Ahhh, the good old herky jerky is gone with repeatable resulsts - Suzuki GSX-R Motorcycle Forums Gixxer.com

Cheers!!!!

 

I actually adjusted the primary TPS on my gsx-F model. The snatchy effect has been eliminated. The other effect is that the idle has increased about 200 rpm, the TC options will only adjust with power on and engine not running. This really doesn't bother me as the bike has run so much smoother without the snatch. My reasons for going the smooth route is because the transmission seems to be taking all the grunt. I was afraid the gear dogs gets worn out even before my warranty period. It also bothers the heck out of me that jerky slop feeling. It worked for me.

 

May have been referring to a post I made, which was taken from a gsxr forum

http://www.gsxs1000.org/forum/161073-post116.html

 

O.K. So here are my findings today............and I don't take credit for anything as it has been documented by others obviously.

Checked my ECU part no and I have the latest part no according to the Suzuki Bulletin, all good there, so I thought well I'm thirds there I will check the position of my Primary TPS. Well low and behold before I even put it into service mode I could see there was an issue. As you can see in the picture the TPS has the factory white mark on it.........doe everyone see what's wrong here!!!!!

So I popped the cap off the service mode connector, did the short of the 2 pins and fired her up.........mind you this was after warming the bike up properly beforehand. Picture 2 of dash confirmed "_C00" caused by picture 1 showing the lower position of the TPS. Now for those that haven't done this procedure it is extremely easy to do and took just 5 minutes once you have it stripped ready to go.

With ignition off I disconnected the Secondary TPS to allow access to the Torx Screw of the Primary TPS which I loosened enough to be able to slightly move its position when required. Reconnect Secondary TPS and start bike. Then ever so slightly I moved the TPS back towards its original white mark position from factory.........waited about 5 seconds and the display changed to -C00........a slight tweek more and I had it sitting at the high level. I tried the throttle a few times to let it settle and then rechecked it was just hitting the upper position on the dash. Turned off ignition.......removed Secondary TPS connector, tightened TPS Torx Screw and refitted S/TPS connector. Turned on ignition, started bike and rechecked dash again ......all good and now white factory line was almost perfect. Strange that this was changed by the factory or someone else to possibly get through emissions testing. Anyway time for a quick test ride.

Just a 10 minute blast up a local back road but what a difference............Smooth as transition from On/Off throttle in rev range of 5K - upwards regardless of gear selected. No hunting and surging when trying to hold a constant speed from 50kms up to well over 100km and tested in rev range 2.5K and up. Able to hold corner lines now with roll ons through bends giving smooth drive rather than a huge jump off line. I now have the bike I was hoping for. Even though it was just a short test the difference is night and day. Time will be the telling factor and I'm sure a proper remap of the ECU will lead to even better results but for a total of about an hour of my time and no money outlaid ..........SUPER HAPPY!!!!

 

<snip-detailed-stuff-for-fixing>
Just a 10 minute blast up a local back road but what a difference............Smooth as transition from On/Off throttle in rev range of 5K - upwards regardless of gear selected. No hunting and surging when trying to hold a constant speed from 50kms up to well over 100km and tested in rev range 2.5K and up. Able to hold corner lines now with roll ons through bends giving smooth drive rather than a huge jump off line. I now have the bike I was hoping for. Even though it was just a short test the difference is night and day. Time will be the telling factor and I'm sure a proper remap of the ECU will lead to even better results but for a total of about an hour of my time and no money outlaid ..........SUPER HAPPY!!!!

This is a great find!

 

This could be interesting to check. How do I put the bike into service/dealer mode? Where are the wires located and what do I have to jump?

Thanks

 

Service connector is under the back seat near the flasher relay. You can get a dealer mode switch off Ebay for £14
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262039944967?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I Think all it does is that it jumps the connector, you could just use a jumper wire if you did not want to buy one. please feel free to correct me if I have got this wrong.

 

This is a common mod among SV's. Performed the same exact way too.

 

I can see the plug under the seat. I just want to check which wires to bridge

 

That's very important information in your posts.
Please, can you post here some explicative pics with all the steps we must take ?

A youtube clip for GXS-R750 (I think is the same procedure).

Cheers.

 

Holy crap. I just did this.
I also did a base line test on the Booster Plug.
Btw I have no other mods except for the throttle tamer.
So its not a real base line test but I remember how the bike used to feel like a thousand km ago before the throttle tamer.

I did a few base line runs first
1. Disconnected booster plug - Snatchy but somwhat smoothed out from whe
2. Connected booster plug - smooth not so jerkey but has a hunting fueling sound below 50000 rpm

Now set the TPS using the above methods to -C00
1. Disconnected booster plug - Feels like how it should have been from the factory like all my other suzukis in the past. That classic stock feel
2. Connected booster plug - As number 1 but with a lot more bottom end.

I never suspected this since i thought these would be correct from factory. Thanks guys

 

WHAT A DIFFERENCE. I would not have bought the booster plug if i knew this. But with the plug. Geez.

 

Kawasaki sells a plug that goes between the actual tps and the bike itself. I'm sure Suzuki has one, too.

It makes it so its very easy to get a connection point for a multimeter. That tps is so sensitive to movement, having a meter hooked up makes precision adjustments possible and you'll also have a specific number to tell others to try.

What made the adapter plug nice is the meter could be in while the bike was running, so it was easy to try different settings and be able to tell the next guy, "Hey, 1.067 worked really well..." or whatever the number was.

I found it in the the bikes service manual. Way overpriced at 35.00, but it was easy to work with.

 

More pics and explanations related to this issue you can find here.

 

So are we saying we don't need a new ecu...?

 

Yup.
From the beginning I was 100% sure it was not an ECM problem.

 

I'm really interested in doing this to mine, roughly how long does it take?

If a £35 service tool from suzuki fixes the issues then I'm all for it, cheaper than a power commander, even though I'll probably get one at some point.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

i take it this is gonna be the reason why only some bikes seem to be 'effected' with that snatchy throttle???

 

Don't bother with a Genuins Suzuki tool ... You can either use a paper clip or get a cheaper one of ebay... oh and you will need the correct Torx bit.... That all I did on my SV1000...!!

 

Sorry I was referring to the post by rcannon409, the connector that plugs into the loom on the tps so an accurate measurement can be made, not the wire with a switch on it that plugs in by the flash relay.

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omg i just did the paper clip trick and what showed up?????? i got the _COO message!!!! i take it this means that i do need to do the tps adjustment then ??

 

While this all sounds wonderful, and I will be trying it and hoping it works, it does make me wonder.....if this is the fix for the throttle issues why is Suzuki replacing ecus?

 

I would imagine a big issue is rules.

We dont have any.

Suzuki has to live within the emissions results they sent in, and we dont.

When we change this setting,

 

Shouldn't the _COO show up at servicing when they plug it in?

 

I hope anyone who has installed a Power commander or Bazzaz had the TPS set correctly before they tuned their air fuel mix..

So I guess this really was a beast with its hands tied behind its back. Im glad this thread was put up. I went for a commute ride today. Bike feels perfect. I have a first batch GSXS and its night and day.

 

I have just tried the paper clip trick. The only change on the dash is the abs light goes out, I don't seem to be able to get it into service mode.
Its the white plug with the cap with the rubber bungs in it, two wires going in, a black and white and a red.? At the back near the flasher relay? Wired closely to something else?
Also tried some electrical wire with the same result.
I started the engine.
??

 

I think that may be the ABS Coupler that you are plugging into. Its the other one with the grey foam around it.