Just collected my bike after it having its first(1000km) service. Was charged $260 for the privilege. On looking at the service details i noticed that on changing the oil, they have put in Motul 3000 20w -50 (mineral) ($36.14) does anyone know if this is correct? Firstly in the service book Suzuki recommend sae 10w-40, if that is not available they have a graph with various oils 20w-50 being one of them. Also with my fireblade semi synthetic was always put in, although it was more expensive. Should semi synthetic have been used? My bike was purchased and serviced by one of the biggest motorcycle dealers in Sydney.if anyone has any thoughts on this, it Would be appreciated.
Kenndo
They asked me if I wanted the Motul Full synth and I said **** yeah. They put in the 7100 and he even came out with the remainder in the 4L container and asked if I wanted to take it. I paid $340. Faired bike is more than a naked.
They took $500 off the remaining balance I had to pay the day I picked it up so to me its a free service.
They took $500 off the remaining balance I had to pay the day I picked it up so to me its a free service.
In my ex gsxr 1000 k7 I used Motul 7100 10w40 and it's goes great.
On the GSX-S at 1000 km service (according to the dealer/service) I will put Bardhal XT-S 10w40.
In the past, with Bardhal, no problem at all, also on my last KTM 1190 ADV for 20k km
Great shift, and no oil consumption, less engine noise.
On ebay 56 euro every 4 liters, but I think about 18 at the dealer.
On the GSX-S at 1000 km service (according to the dealer/service) I will put Bardhal XT-S 10w40.
In the past, with Bardhal, no problem at all, also on my last KTM 1190 ADV for 20k km
Great shift, and no oil consumption, less engine noise.
On ebay 56 euro every 4 liters, but I think about 18 at the dealer.
My 1,000 service was $255.50.
Dealership used Maxima Premium 10W40 - charging me $46.90 for the oil...
Dealership used Maxima Premium 10W40 - charging me $46.90 for the oil...
My dealer quoted me $250 for my first service, using Motul 3100. I've used it in the past, in my 2008 GSXR750 and the bike didn't seem to agree with it. So I got them to up spec the oil, and they put Motul 300V in it for me, its $130 for 4L, but they only charged me $300 for the service and gave me the remaining oil in the bottle.
I came away from my first service with this nice gash on the tank cover. Real nice. I'm getting my new one on tomorrow or the next day.
Other than that they did a good job. Besides changing the oil with Amsoil at my request, (they were going to use Yamalube conventional oil), they did a chain adjustment, cleaning and lube. Checked torque on critical fasteners, oil analysis, inspected hoses and things. Just gave it a good once over. I could see the tech working on it from where I was and he seemed to be taking his time. It would have been nice for him to fess up to the scratch though.
Other than that they did a good job. Besides changing the oil with Amsoil at my request, (they were going to use Yamalube conventional oil), they did a chain adjustment, cleaning and lube. Checked torque on critical fasteners, oil analysis, inspected hoses and things. Just gave it a good once over. I could see the tech working on it from where I was and he seemed to be taking his time. It would have been nice for him to fess up to the scratch though.
I would take the bike back to the dealer and demand a replacement tank cover. This is why I do my own oil changes and use duct tape to protect this area of paint. I did my first service for $50 and no scratches.
I have been using full synthetic Amsoil in all my bikes for years. I put "Amsoil 10W-40 Metric" in my GSX S1000 at 600 miles. Note that Amsoil differentiates between oil for V-Twins vrs oil for the typical metric bike. Based on what I've read over the years, Amsoil is the most popular motorcycle oil in the US. That being said, any quality oil brand, (synthetic or synthetic blend) is probably fine as long as it meets the API and or JASO classification indicated in the owners manual. Also, as stated in the owners manual, it is critical to avoid oil labeled as "energy conserving" or "resource conserving" primarily because it contains lubricating additives that are bad for wet clutches.
oils aint oils ....
Perth $220 they used Motul Mineral,$41, I have no problem with that .I used mineral oil only for 12 years with no problems in my last suzuki. However i changed it myself every 3000k and not the recommended 6000k interval.That bike SVS1000, and the GSXS don't rev to a billion RPM, all the mechanics I have spoken to say good mineral is fine. If you have a 13 or 14 or 15000rpm redline and are hitting it all day everyday hey fully synthetic is probably the way to go.I don't have much time available for street riding , but I do 600-700k's a month at the track, for a lot of high rev work. Will be switching to fully synthetic at 3000k, will still change it every 3000k's .Why ? because I nearly always keep my bikes for 10 years +
Perth $220 they used Motul Mineral,$41, I have no problem with that .I used mineral oil only for 12 years with no problems in my last suzuki. However i changed it myself every 3000k and not the recommended 6000k interval.That bike SVS1000, and the GSXS don't rev to a billion RPM, all the mechanics I have spoken to say good mineral is fine. If you have a 13 or 14 or 15000rpm redline and are hitting it all day everyday hey fully synthetic is probably the way to go.I don't have much time available for street riding , but I do 600-700k's a month at the track, for a lot of high rev work. Will be switching to fully synthetic at 3000k, will still change it every 3000k's .Why ? because I nearly always keep my bikes for 10 years +
I took my F for its 1000km service last Friday. The service manager at Suzuki dealer told me they replaced the oil (which was a mineral oil) again with mineral oil and it should only be changed to semi-synthetic oil at 10 000km, since that is how long it apparently takes to fully break the engine in. And then to fully synthetic at a later stage. He indicated that they had been on a course with Suzuki that also specifically dealt with the oil, and that there were some cases reported to Suzuki where bikes (GSXR's) were smoking prematurely and the guys claimed that they followed the break in as suggested in the manual.
I know this is an old thread but thought I'd just add some observations. My bike has just clicked over 6000 km and the previous oil change was done by the dealer at 1000 km.
Mainly out of curiosity with respect to what the oil looked like, I did an oil and filter change yesterday - 5000 km after the first one. From a purely visual inspection, it seemed relatively free of the signs of wear debris but was a much darker brown than I was expecting. As it takes a little while for the rings to bed in fully, I wonder whether there was more combustion blow-by contamination than might be expected later on. Oh, and I found a flake of white paint about 4mm long sitting on the thread of the sump, clearly from the inside of the motor. Have no idea where it came from!
All pretty subjective - if I wasn't retired, I could have put a sample through the oil spectrum analyser at work! For what it's worth, I used Motul 5100 10W-40, which was the oil of choice on my previous 2 bikes.
Mainly out of curiosity with respect to what the oil looked like, I did an oil and filter change yesterday - 5000 km after the first one. From a purely visual inspection, it seemed relatively free of the signs of wear debris but was a much darker brown than I was expecting. As it takes a little while for the rings to bed in fully, I wonder whether there was more combustion blow-by contamination than might be expected later on. Oh, and I found a flake of white paint about 4mm long sitting on the thread of the sump, clearly from the inside of the motor. Have no idea where it came from!
All pretty subjective - if I wasn't retired, I could have put a sample through the oil spectrum analyser at work! For what it's worth, I used Motul 5100 10W-40, which was the oil of choice on my previous 2 bikes.
The darkness of an oil does not mean anything as far as we are concerned with. Many of them get darker after getting warm because of additives they have.
You could find an oil that turned 100% black, and is still fully ok to use. now, obviously the darkening could mean contaminates. My work truck, with 300,000 miles does that, but in a new engine, dont worry. The black is nothing.
You could find an oil that turned 100% black, and is still fully ok to use. now, obviously the darkening could mean contaminates. My work truck, with 300,000 miles does that, but in a new engine, dont worry. The black is nothing.
yep, color means nothing. Just have to watch the mileage. I like to run full syn, and change it every 4k-5k miles. Even though it could probably last 7k.
There was a study I saw where different oils were used in New York Taxis over the course of a few years and a few dozen cabs (LOTS of miles)... IIRC, the engines all wore exactly the same, regardless of oil brand and type.
The take-away was that if you change your oil on time, any oil with the right viscosity works just the same (synthetic or conventional). That said, synthetic allows you to go longer between changes.
The take-away was that if you change your oil on time, any oil with the right viscosity works just the same (synthetic or conventional). That said, synthetic allows you to go longer between changes.
IMO mineral or synthetic would do the same in most cases with older bikes and most cars but I have gone with full synth for this bike just for the high temperature it runs at and some rides we do when it's over 40c so I think the full synth would hold up better as it's designed for
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
