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What engine oil.

109K views 106 replies 58 participants last post by  EBaker  
#1 · (Edited)
Just collected my bike after it having its first(1000km) service. Was charged $260 for the privilege. On looking at the service details i noticed that on changing the oil, they have put in Motul 3000 20w -50 (mineral) ($36.14) does anyone know if this is correct? Firstly in the service book Suzuki recommend sae 10w-40, if that is not available they have a graph with various oils 20w-50 being one of them. Also with my fireblade semi synthetic was always put in, although it was more expensive. Should semi synthetic have been used? My bike was purchased and serviced by one of the biggest motorcycle dealers in Sydney.if anyone has any thoughts on this, it Would be appreciated.
 
#43 ·
My plan

I'm dumping my oil between 500-600 miles for Spectro conventional10w40, then semi-synthetic of the like at 1000, then full synthetic after a few kmiles. New filter each time. Thoughts?
 
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#45 · (Edited)
I have used Shell Rotella T6 full synthetic for years even before they have stamped the JASO-MA label on it. If you read the back label on the new Rotella T6 it is a JASO MA certified. I was using 15W-40W then switch over to 5W-40W full synthetic. Reading all comments about oil on this site, and other bike forum i'm a member of. Everyone has great idea about what to avoid and oil to use, my take is as long as you change oil and filter regularly that works with wet clutches your doing well. I believe its just a personal experience of what you've been using that has worked well for your bike. Clean oil better dirty oil it will cost you much more for engine repairs.
 
#48 ·
I am admittedly not an engine/oil expert, but my understanding is that 5w40 would have better viscosity at very low temps than 10w40, but there is no difference at high temperatures.

The bike's manual doesn't specify 5w40 because nobody rides their motorcycle when the temps are -20 so they figured there is no reason to specify that range. But if you don't ride in sub-zero temps there is no difference.

The issue for me is that Rotella T6 is readily available at places like Walmart (and it frequently goes on sale) whereas Motul 7100 and other motorcycle synthetic oils are only foudn at motorcycle shops and they charge a ridiculous amount for it. So if I used Rotella T6 I would be doing oil changes a lot more frequently due to how convenient it would be to obtain the oil.

Another thing I want to know is, is it to early to switch to a full synthetic, should you wait until your bike has a certain mileage? I notice they put in mineral oil at my 1000 kms service.
 
#47 ·
In an earlier post I said I used Motil 5100, however a couple of weeks ago I was at my dealers having a chin wag and we got onto oils, long story short he recommended Fuchs Silkolene Comp4 10W-30 synthetic oil which is expensive but he assured me I would feel the difference. The cynical side of me thought yeah yeah but I relented and gave it a go.
Annoyingly I can feel a difference especially in the shifting, it's so much more smoother. And after a good 500 miles it still looks clear and golden in the sight glass.
I shall be using this in future.
 
#54 ·
Soz!
Couldn't stop myself>:D

It always makes me chuckle. Two countries which speak the same language and we can't always understand each other.
My first experience of this was when I went to the states as a lad. We were going to be there a while so I had to go to school. I was in the six grade but I can still remember the look on the teachers face when I asked if I could borrow her rubber0:)...I suppose it didn't help that she was also about 6 months pregnant at the time also:D
 
#55 ·
Went to my dealer to buy some oil/filter/crush gasket...They said they used Yamalube 10W40 in all their bikes. So I decided to go for some Yamalube 10w50 in semi-synthetic (I also will be doing my Yamaha Super Tenere so figured why not run the same stuff)



It felt a little odd getting Yamalube for a Suzuki but whatevs, it's all oil I suppose :)
 
#58 ·
I'm still undecided about synthetic vs mineral oil. I read in a lot of GSXR threads that synthetic oil might affect the swelling of gaskets (as in causing them to not seal as well). Our manual makes no mention of using synthetic oil, although I don't know if other manuals ever recommend it.

My opinion is that synthetic 'probably' won't affect the seals - there's a lot of BS that gets passed around the internet - but I read it enough that it has me wondering.

I know synthetic oil will last longer and is better for the engine as the miles build up between oil changes. So I've been using mineral oil and changing it frequently. I'm not far from being convinced to switch to synthetic and go a little longer between changes (especially with the F - I'm lazy {and really don't want to cycle plastic clips all that much} and leave the fairings on and end up getting a bunch of oil on the exhaust).
 
#62 ·
I did about the same but I went with a new brand of oil I never used before called Ravenol (10W-40 motorcycle). Made in Germany but was a good deal cheaper than anything else I could find. I got about 8 liters for $50 (semi-synth). Came in interesting jugs with a built-in pop-out spout that I haven't seen before in the US.

For the filters I went with Hiflofiltro HF-138. Seems like a good quality filter and the gasket came pre-lubed.


Currently at about 1300 miles.
 
#65 · (Edited)
So far (two oil changes), I've just undone the center connecting plastic on the F. Still kind of a pain in the arse and a small flat blade screwdriver on the inner left side panel where it's attached comes in very handy. With that panel unconnected, it allows me to get my hand in and wrangle out the filter. The Original filter was a complete PITA to get off, so now, I only use the filters with the 17mm cap. I use HiFlo Filtro 138RC specifically, don't do K&N. Long story but they used to be made by HiFlo and aren't anymore and there have been lot's of failures. Just google "K&N motorcycle oil filter failures". A socket wrench with a short extension slips right between the headers. I always end up coating the headers in oil when I remove the filter, but I don't find that to be a problem. Some Viva paper towels cleans it up nicely, and I've never even noticed any smoke or smell.
 
#66 ·
First oil change on the F I removed the whole thing. This spring I will go your way and try with only removing the center plastic base. I also use Semi Motul 5100 but I think any motorcycle oil will do the trick if it is changed regularly. It's crazy what we can believe. Stop reading everything that is said on the Internet about oil and go riding :D
 
#67 ·
I use Motul 7100 and a K&N filter. I will order the Hi-flo next as they are cheaper. I thought K&N and Hi-flow was the same. I saw an oil filter test where they cut a bunch of filters open. Hi-flow and K&N were identical except for the label. Don't know the age of the vid though.

I agree the stock filter was a PITA. Could not find an oil wrench to fit it. Finally just stabbed it with a screwdriver and removed it old school :D
 
#69 · (Edited)
Well, crap. Recently I bought a whole box of K&N. Thanks for that recall info; going to check mine when I get home.

Just looked at that recall and it seems to only be for #204 filters and ours are 138, so hopefully they aren't affected? I guess different filters could be made in different factories? Guilt by association? So many questions...
 
#71 ·
My local dealer quoted me at $375 for my 600mi service. I can afford it, but that seems way too expensive. What do i need to do besides change the oil? I was going to put 4qts of Ecstar full synth in and change the oil filter, bit what else?
 
#78 ·
engines and oils - ,as an ex m/cycle mech, ive seen the results of lack of oil changes, and using the wrong grades, and even using cheap ill suited oils.
but if its the correct grade, changed regularly i.e. within specified kms and to a lesser extent time periods, all will be well with at least the lubrication side of your engine, their is no actual point in putting high grade synthetic oil and then changing it within a couple of thousand km's , unless your drag racing, or circuit racing type use, for general principle i go by , if its getting a hard time by owner- synthetic at specified intervals, if its ordinary road use with extended non-running times -mineral oils changed at time periods specified. , i always change filter with oil as it will contaminate your fresh oil, i usually also spend abit of time leaning bike from side to side to get rid of as much of the old oil as is physically possible to minimise oil contamination, as its not your oil that actually wears out , its the additives that are there to fight - contamination
 
#79 ·
I like the Motul 7100 so much i have started lubing my guns with it. If it can withstand up to 12K RPM's and high heat and has corrosion preventives, it should make a fine firearms lubricant. I like that it doesn't have that petroleum smell.

I think half if not all of the wonder lubes for firearms are motor or gear oils repackaged into small bottles and marked up about 500-600%

I noticed smoother shifting after putting 7100 in my bike.
 
#88 ·
Yes, this is what I have heard about this oil Motul 7100. It' is really expensive but the benefits are noticed. Of course there is always people that do not notice night from day.